Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok full details are, every one who paid yesterday is free entry and spectators are free, new compeditors are $40, re start in quallifying and whole day races for street cars, gates open 9am and racing is at 10, (info from craig so if its wrong blame him lol)

hey guys sorry i haven't made any replies i havent really had a chance to get on the net for the last month.

speeking of which guys check this, i think joyner got ripped,

www.morpowa.com.au go to ford performance then read down to stage three. that is what joyner has, 370 engine kw on high boost, (apparently) but read the list of parts its supposed to have

Stage 3 - 330 kW @ wheels (approx

Cast alloy intake manifold #

Cast alloy rocker cover #

Fiberglass air box #

Cast alloy intake pipe #

these are bits he doesnt have and they are pretty important pieces, cause his engine bay looks exactly like mine so im not sure if the bloke he bought it off was mesing him around or not

Hope not

as for the drags this sunday im supposed to be working but i might come out and watch, might hold of racing untill i get a zorst, dont want to get put to shame by joyner too much lol. :D

Just race Joyner anyway, go for broke, Craig did lol

lol yeah i guess, craigs rex is all sweet though, na i already said i would work but i might come out and watch in the morning then work the afternoon shift maybe..

see what happens.

speaking of which who is racing this week? everyone from last week going to be there?

hey cammo will the sil80 be ready to run or still no go? would be awesome to see it out and about again :D

I'll be out there. Carmelo did a magnificent job at welding up my manifold. Got my oil pressure gauge working as well, one wire needed attention. Cheering. Shimmed up carmelo's diff tonight in the hopes it will improve his traction issues.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...