Jump to content
SAU Community

Greddy E-management

DEJA VU

By DEJA VU,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

stenve Proficient

stenve

Posted
Posted
hi,

just want to find out if anyone runs one.

also, with the management can you run any sort of boost controller and Air Flow Controller?

thanks

are we talking emanage blue or emanage ultimate

with the blue you can run the greddy e-01 boost controller, not sure about air flow though

with the ultimate i think greddy are working on an EBC to work with it as the e-01 doesnt. and you can run the ultimate with the greddy pressure sensor to get rid of your afm.

im not running one yet but will be in the next few weeks once my emu arrives and thats what ive found out about it from reading around here

sic200 Community Regular

sic200

Posted
Posted

emanage blue you can use a pressure sensor aswell.. to tune the emanage,... however your standard ecu will still require the afm to be used, because the emanage is just modifying the factory computer signals... if that makes any sense. you can tune it via the e01 boost controller or the emanage specific laptop support tool. you don't need an air flow controller, as that is wat the emanage does. you can upgrade airflow meters. upgrade injectors and also run extra injectors, you can also use it to switch nitrous/water spray if you know how to hook it up. they are a good computer, as far as piggy back's go.

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

im running an emanage ultimate.

you can run any AFM you like, it has an option where you can tell it which one you're using, e.g. if you're using a z32 afm, you change the AFM setting to VG30DETT as you're using the afm that is standard for that car.

you can run any kind of boost controller you like, even the e-01 but you cant use that to tune the emanage ultimate, only the blue.

DEJA VU Rising Star

DEJA VU

Posted
  • Author
Posted

sorry...im referring to the blue one.

as far as boost controllers.....is it compatible with any electronic Boost controller or must it be the Greddy one?

also, just to confirm I can sell off my air flow controller as the E-management can be altered to get the best mixture?

thanks

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted
air-flow controller isn't really the right terminology is it?

Air-Fuel controller i think is what you're after :P

air-FLOW controller IS the correct terminology as they change the air-FLOW signal/voltage from the AFM and output a different voltage :)

pear Mentor

pear

Posted
Posted

Can I hijack this and ask a few questions :P

Purchasing

- Who has the best deal on the Ultimate?

- I'm heading to the US in approx 2months, they look a little cheaper over there... not sure on warranty though, any comments?

Installation & Tuning

- Can you recommend anyone in QLD (Bris/Gold Coast) to install & tune?

Thanks!!

psybic Proficient

psybic

Posted
Posted
air-FLOW controller IS the correct terminology as they change the air-FLOW signal/voltage from the AFM and output a different voltage :P

but u aren't CONTROLLING the air FLOW are you. u are controlling the SIGNAL/VOLTAGE as u said...

but yeah, u know what it's doing :glare:

how are u finding the emanage? i've been looking at it for a while. thinking of using one on next car, use microtech at the moment, but they look good. ignition control harness would be a must!

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted
but u aren't CONTROLLING the air FLOW are you. u are controlling the SIGNAL/VOLTAGE as u said...

but yeah, u know what it's doing :glare:

how are u finding the emanage? i've been looking at it for a while. thinking of using one on next car, use microtech at the moment, but they look good. ignition control harness would be a must!

thats exactly what you're controlling.

the airflow doesnt change, but the signal does, so as far as the ECU is concerned the airflow is what you want it to be.

if you want to go all out, get all harnesses and all options (pressure sensor and wideband hook up).

i plan on getting these soon and tuning my car myself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...