Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i too was looking for a nice R32 GTR (the dream car of many including myself) but couldnt really find any that was in good condition considering its age.

rather than looking for a totally different car (evo lancer)...i ended up getting an R33 GTR.

Have never looked back since! :) Although other Skyline models are still nice and quick...there's nothing like driving a GTR!

Good luck with the search!

People who think that in japan they rolled back the odo on most cars are only fooling themselves. Think of the size of Japan and the population, the price of gas and cost of insuring it + the huge cost of shakken.

In japan its cheaper to buy a new car then keep an old one.

In japan its cheaper and QUICKER to walk/take transit then drive.

These cars along with most cars in japan were used mainly for weekend/evening fun. That could be just plain cruising.

I've had a couple skylines along the way and everyone of them has been a gem.

As long as you keep a budget of around 2000-3000 a year for the OH SHIT fund you will be fine.

Well after picking up my new 32 GTR on thursday and having a test drive out at oran park while watching a skidpan day i was absolutely blown away with the cars power and balance.

i drove it hard through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd and was thinking damn this is quick only to realise that i had accidentally turned off the boost controller. switched it back on and them did the same with 250kw.....damn im still smiling....

People who think that in japan they rolled back the odo on most cars are only fooling themselves. Think of the size of Japan and the population, the price of gas and cost of insuring it + the huge cost of shakken.

In japan its cheaper to buy a new car then keep an old one.

In japan its cheaper and QUICKER to walk/take transit then drive.

These cars along with most cars in japan were used mainly for weekend/evening fun. That could be just plain cruising.

I've had a couple skylines along the way and everyone of them has been a gem.

As long as you keep a budget of around 2000-3000 a year for the OH SHIT fund you will be fine.

It's usually the compliance people who turn it back isn't it?

GTR with same output as GTT.. I just meant at the flywheel .. Most GTRs are now going to have more mods than a GTT.. And sure you wont pull out of a corner faster but it wont guzzle as much fuel either.. Im sure you are to concerned with that tho...

Awesome car.. Cant deny they!

It's usually the compliance people who turn it back isn't it?

Well I'm from canada and havn't really looked into your compliance regulations. But I guess they refuse cars that aren't stock?..

i might be wrong but, the r34 gtt has the same amount of power due to that japanese limitation thing 206kw or something, just like the evo and supras ect,

while the gtr has the same amount of power output it has alot more torque......doesnt it?

New r34 Gtt has same output as 32 GTR.. Now you weight up what you would rather and decide.. I think the r32 is a wicked car but you'll prob spend its worth on fixing it rather than modding it ..

GTT with GTR mod for 4wd will have u buzzing but I think the GTT is good enough..

My mate has an r32 GTR, it has a cat back exhaust, and he removed the boost restrictor (a piece of plastic that comes for the factory). So its pretty much un-modded, he put it on a dyno and it pull 197kw at all four wheels, if you covert that the rwd its about 230kw at the rear wheels. The Nissan stats may say the car had 206kw (at the flywheel) but that simply isnt true, and by doing something as simple as taking out boost restrictor (5 mins - no cost) and an exhaust, which every skyline has just about, u can have nearlly 200 at all 4 wheels!

So I wouldn't put them in the same league based on the fact Nissan claimed they had the same power figure when new, they wouldn't say it was over 206kw even if it was because the Japanses car manufactures at the time had a "gentlemen's agreement" not to build cars with over 206kw... you will see quite a few cars with that exact figure... amazing coincidence??? I think not.

At the end of the day one is a twin turbo 2.6, the other is a 2.5 single turbo...think about it

Edited by r32line

I just picked up my R32 GTR a few months ago and i love the thing to death but like all cars that are 17 years old, their gonna require some green from your wallet to stay alive..Common problems include ignition, timing belts, and boost leaks..Not the most expensive of problems but you'd be supprised how quick everything adds up..If your not on a "budget" and your not looking for a daily driver that your going to drive to work, and use for pleasure then this car's a great buy as long as you do your research and make sure you dont get a real lemon...but if this car is going to be your main mode of transportation your going to take a big risk..with a GTR you always hope for the best, but you better have a bank account thats prepared for the worst :(

"Is It Still Worth Buying A 32gtr?" in answer, wise man once said: 'Does a shark shit in the ocean?'

R32 GTR, original & still the best... no doubt.

ROFL thats fkn classic haha does a shark shit in the ocean hahahahah love it!

ive got an 93' GTR R32.. and ive owned a 211rwkw 180sx, 300rwkw+ track rx7, couple modded commonwhores

ive also driven and thrashed an Evo7, Evo8, S15 200sx, R34 GTT, S7 Rx7, Hsv's all the models including the VE ones...

and the GTR might not be the quickest thing ive driven, but its certainly the best thing ive ever driven with the potential to be soooo much more than what it is.

probably only makes around 180awkw.. but it was enough to dispatch a mates "230rwkw" 200sx

Its called King of the Road for a reason :D

And dont u forget it

Edited by Bumblebee

worth it what sense ? what would you concider not worth it ? being lied to about km's ??

while it might not be the best of things to be unsure about, as long as the car looks good and you get it tested and all that malary you should be fine. worth it in terms of performance ? lol need you ask :)

worked 32's usually beat 33's and 34's around tsukuba cos theyre that bit lighter from what i understand, and are desired by drivers for theyre more rawr appeal, less refined and controlled than later generations, therefor you can throw the car around more and have it do what you want.

but i spose that could be frowned upon just as a road car

Ok, I have to ask this...

What is this "plastic restrictor"?, am curious... I guess mine dont have it now, but i would love to see it in its place, and what it looked like.

Aaaaaaany way, Drive a GT-R, why accept second best!

Hehehe!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...