Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The answer is you can make 200rwkw on the stock unit.

The R34 intercooler is a bolt in and will give you some more headroom for a tad more power. Water spray is not needed at all on the stock turbo unless you have some sustained thrashing involved but, none the less is of benifit to any size intercooler.

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Why bother wasting $200 for a r34 side mount when you will probably get sick of it/need to upgrade 2-3 months down the track.

Just get a fmic hole cut, get it done by a pro, make it look nice n pro. Dont worry about cutting a hole, we all do it but if u have a spare 1k go do what some ppl here mentioned.

The way i see it, cooler kit for $350 (i have one ready to go) installation ~100-150 u just saved 500-600 on other mods that u will enjoy

$200 on an R34 intercooler is very little money and still cheaper than a fmic, on a stock turbo or hiflow with power levels upto 220rwkw or so.

So you can ask "why spend another $300 for cop bait, extra weight and more often than not, no extra performance?"

Then again be a bolt on boy and follow the sheep? Who cares it's all good.

hmm rohan is that you from ns.com?

or how do you know my name lol?

umm yea he bought it from ebay..

Theres another one on sau for 100 bucks.. guy lives in penrith area i think

I also have sourced one out for 120 bucks in melb..

$200 on an R34 intercooler is very little money and still cheaper than a fmic, on a stock turbo or hiflow with power levels upto 220rwkw or so.

So you can ask "why spend another $300 for cop bait, extra weight and more often than not, no extra performance?"

Then again be a bolt on boy and follow the sheep? Who cares it's all good.

Paint it black, you will notice the difference of a FMIC on the track.

$200 on an R34 intercooler is very little money and still cheaper than a fmic, on a stock turbo or hiflow with power levels upto 220rwkw or so.

So you can ask "why spend another $300 for cop bait, extra weight and more often than not, no extra performance?"

Then again be a bolt on boy and follow the sheep? Who cares it's all good.

Follow the sheep? wtf..

People use FMIC kits because they work. $200 for a side mount, and for $130 extra you can get a FMIC kit which will do a the same job, and will support more than 200rwkw if you do chooses to go there later.

I mean he has an Rb25, all he is has to do is boost it to 13psi or so, with exhaust adn shit, and that side mount becomes useless as he will make over 200rwkw anyways.

Why would you bother going a sidemount? I know I wouldnt.

He will put the side mount in, boost it to 13psi, get about 200rwkw, drive it hard, either on street or track and the thing will suck, then he will want more power and he will have to rip the side mount out, and spend another $300odd and get a FMIC, when he should have just bought one in the first place.

Honestly, with prices of FMIC kits now, why would you bother with a side mount?

Edited by abu
Meh no point arguing with these ppl abu.

Just state your opinion and let them decide.

Stiff shit if they don't want to listen.

Tell me about it.

It's like a temporary solution. No Point!

Ah well. Good luck with it all.

Thanks,

Abu

Edited by abu
I mean he has an Rb25, all he is has to do is boost it to 13psi or so, with exhaust adn shit, and that side mount becomes useless as he will make over 200rwkw anyways.

A few guys I know have run low 13 and even high 12s with a standard R33 intercooler. Not R34 upgrades, on the stock turbo. Doesn't seem that useless to me?

The r34 core is proven to flow efficiently to 220rwkw, so you can make over 200rwkw if you like.

My last R34 intercooler cost me $80.

man i love ur car

looks so fkn mint, i wish my 32 looked as pretty as urs :glare:

where to get a gtr bar in melb?

Hahah thanks man. Your car is tough as!!

Did you do the RB25 conversion your self?

GTR bar came on the car from Japannnn :P

Sorry to go off topic..

A few guys I know have run low 13 and even high 12s with a standard R33 intercooler. Not R34 upgrades, on the stock turbo. Doesn't seem that useless to me?

The r34 core is proven to flow efficiently to 220rwkw, so you can make over 200rwkw if you like.

My last R34 intercooler cost me $80.

High 12's? On stock cooler?.. :glare:

$80 straight bolt on hey, pretty good man.

Included all the piping, clamps and joiners too?

Edited by abu

ive got an r34 cooler on mine. only seeing about 190rwkw @ ~10psi. its doing its job fine. but now i want to get it tuned to 12psi, with a new exhaust setup. i'm thinking it will be safer with an fmic. so yeah r34 is kinda temporary. but it was a piss easy swap over, and pretty cheap.

ive got an r34 cooler on mine. only seeing about 190rwkw @ ~10psi. its doing its job fine. but now i want to get it tuned to 12psi, with a new exhaust setup. i'm thinking it will be safer with an fmic. so yeah r34 is kinda temporary. but it was a piss easy swap over, and pretty cheap.

If you are running a stock turbo or anything under 220rwkw (bonnet down) then there is no 'safety issue'. :glare:

this seems to have turned into the battle of the fmic vs the r34 coolers. ah well its always worth a read. I am about to source a r34 cooler for $50 all up. I think its a decent buy. Will let you guys know how I go after a tune.

hahah you stalker.. but howd you get my name anywyas?

umm see you found one for 50..

I see some ppl selling 34 coolers for like 200 plus.. im like wow!!

What's the difference between R33 stock cooler and R34 stock cooler?

Just curious on why these are soooo goood.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...