Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well im looking at a stock GTR 32 for 17k

Its never been dynoed but its stock everything. Except exhaust.

What Kws would it be making roughly?

And when i buy i dont wanna upgrade much so all i plan on doing is

Power Fc + controller

Fuel Pump

Boost Controller

I hope to get away with all that only costing $2000 to buy fit and tune.

What would my figure be roughly then?

Any thing i should upgrade to?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182634-stock-gtr-32/
Share on other sites

about 180rwkw

how much boost do you plan to run once tuned with pfc, ebc and fuel pump?

then someone can tell you what you will probably make.

I'd "guess" with 14psi on stock turbo's, PFC and fuel pump, tuned, it will be about 230rwkw or round about.

and good for mid to low 12's?

Having said that, 14psi on stock R32 turbo's in on burrowed time.

Do this at your own risk.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182634-stock-gtr-32/#findComment-3313671
Share on other sites

about 180rwkw

how much boost do you plan to run once tuned with pfc, ebc and fuel pump?

then someone can tell you what you will probably make.

I'd "guess" with 14psi on stock turbo's, PFC and fuel pump, tuned, it will be about 230rwkw or round about.

and good for mid to low 12's?

Having said that, 14psi on stock R32 turbo's in on burrowed time.

Do this at your own risk.

i was told itll hold up to 300kws the engine internals

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182634-stock-gtr-32/#findComment-3313735
Share on other sites

u wont get great power without dump pipe, decent exhaust. from what i have discovered stock turbos range, but generally ppl says dont boost over 1 bar....

fuel pump prob wont need touching if u are only going to do those mods, better spent on dump pipes

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182634-stock-gtr-32/#findComment-3313788
Share on other sites

u wont get great power without dump pipe, decent exhaust. from what i have discovered stock turbos range, but generally ppl says dont boost over 1 bar....

fuel pump prob wont need touching if u are only going to do those mods, better spent on dump pipes

ok cheers might do that to.. whats that worth to do??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182634-stock-gtr-32/#findComment-3313806
Share on other sites

I love the general broad comments.

Yes.. in general the RB26 internals are good for that sort of power.

my comment of "Having said that, 14psi on stock R32 turbo's in on burrowed time" is in reference to the stock Ceramic wheeled turbo's bolted to the side of the rb26.

if they blow, you are up for a "MINIMUM" pair of turbo's. new, used or hiflowed or whatever.

I don't see that being less than $1500 for the parts, then labour to fit it all... no offence, you just don't come across as the type of person who can do this task.

I say minimum, as it's seems to be a 50/50 chance of blowing the engine when you blow a stock turbo on these cars.

do a search and you'll see a few threads about GTR's and rebuilds.

some people don't have any issues to the engine when a stock turbo blows and others lose compression on the 3 cylinders that the blown turbo is connected to..

a simple rb26 forged piston and rod pack is close to $2K

blah blah blah.. could be an expensive exercise for running that sort of boost on stockers..

if I were you, I'd try to stretch the budget to buy a GTR which has good compression and aftermarket turbo's or one tha't s been fully built

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182634-stock-gtr-32/#findComment-3313821
Share on other sites

ok cheers might do that to.. whats that worth to do??

You need to be a bit careful with you terminology. The dump pipes bolt up against the turbo. They are bastards of things to get at and replacing them will provide little power gain on a stock car.

The front pipes which go from the dump pipe to the cat are easier to get at, but don't provide a big gain.

Importantly if the car has a cheap compliance cat this can be an issue. Try either a stock unit (very good) or a good aftermarket one.

The remainder of the exhaust can be bought relatively cheaply & is worthwhile - some for the power but mostly for the noise.

As had been said the fuel pump if you want to replace it will be mostly for insurance rather than performance.

Air filter (K&N) plus 14# boost + exhaust will run over 300rwhp on an R32 Gt-R. You can throw some cam gears at it for some more hp. After that you need to shop for bigger turbos.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182634-stock-gtr-32/#findComment-3313833
Share on other sites

I love the general broad comments.

Yes.. in general the RB26 internals are good for that sort of power.

my comment of "Having said that, 14psi on stock R32 turbo's in on burrowed time" is in reference to the stock Ceramic wheeled turbo's bolted to the side of the rb26.

if they blow, you are up for a "MINIMUM" pair of turbo's. new, used or hiflowed or whatever.

I don't see that being less than $1500 for the parts, then labour to fit it all... no offence, you just don't come across as the type of person who can do this task.

I say minimum, as it's seems to be a 50/50 chance of blowing the engine when you blow a stock turbo on these cars.

do a search and you'll see a few threads about GTR's and rebuilds.

some people don't have any issues to the engine when a stock turbo blows and others lose compression on the 3 cylinders that the blown turbo is connected to..

a simple rb26 forged piston and rod pack is close to $2K

blah blah blah.. could be an expensive exercise for running that sort of boost on stockers..

if I were you, I'd try to stretch the budget to buy a GTR which has good compression and aftermarket turbo's or one tha't s been fully built

that sounds good, find one that has new turbos, but honestly where are those cars. ive been searching awhile and in SA there has only been 4 gtrs around

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182634-stock-gtr-32/#findComment-3313840
Share on other sites

You need to be a bit careful with you terminology. The dump pipes bolt up against the turbo. They are bastards of things to get at and replacing them will provide little power gain on a stock car.

The front pipes which go from the dump pipe to the cat are easier to get at, but don't provide a big gain.

Importantly if the car has a cheap compliance cat this can be an issue. Try either a stock unit (very good) or a good aftermarket one.

The remainder of the exhaust can be bought relatively cheaply & is worthwhile - some for the power but mostly for the noise.

As had been said the fuel pump if you want to replace it will be mostly for insurance rather than performance.

Air filter (K&N) plus 14# boost + exhaust will run over 300rwhp on an R32 Gt-R. You can throw some cam gears at it for some more hp. After that you need to shop for bigger turbos.

is that with or without the power fc?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182634-stock-gtr-32/#findComment-3313848
Share on other sites

I love the general broad comments.

Yes.. in general the RB26 internals are good for that sort of power.

my comment of "Having said that, 14psi on stock R32 turbo's in on burrowed time" is in reference to the stock Ceramic wheeled turbo's bolted to the side of the rb26.

if they blow, you are up for a "MINIMUM" pair of turbo's. new, used or hiflowed or whatever.

I don't see that being less than $1500 for the parts, then labour to fit it all... no offence, you just don't come across as the type of person who can do this task.

I say minimum, as it's seems to be a 50/50 chance of blowing the engine when you blow a stock turbo on these cars.

do a search and you'll see a few threads about GTR's and rebuilds.

some people don't have any issues to the engine when a stock turbo blows and others lose compression on the 3 cylinders that the blown turbo is connected to..

a simple rb26 forged piston and rod pack is close to $2K

blah blah blah.. could be an expensive exercise for running that sort of boost on stockers..

if I were you, I'd try to stretch the budget to buy a GTR which has good compression and aftermarket turbo's or one tha't s been fully built

the one im looking at has HKS GT-SS TURBOS (GT-25 BALL BEARING) and FULL 3.5 INCH TITANIUM EXHAUST.

Those turbos any good? they a ok up grade from the standered turbos? and is that what ur talking about when u say good aftermarket turbos?

thanks for ue advice by the way!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182634-stock-gtr-32/#findComment-3313865
Share on other sites

is that with or without the power fc?

Take your pick. The stock ecu can be remapped if you deem it necessary. The Power fc base tune can be cleaned up also. I used to run my old car on a power fc with the base tune in it. Works fine as does the stock ECU with the same settings.

At the end of the day the tune is more important than the ecu - get so it checked on the dyno.

Lastly don't listen to the full time harbingers of doom about the turbos. They are fine, just don't run them outside their envelope & don't abuse the car. Same as anything.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182634-stock-gtr-32/#findComment-3313875
Share on other sites

Take your pick. The stock ecu can be remapped if you deem it necessary. The Power fc base tune can be cleaned up also. I used to run my old car on a power fc with the base tune in it. Works fine as does the stock ECU with the same settings.

At the end of the day the tune is more important than the ecu - get so it checked on the dyno.

Lastly don't listen to the full time harbingers of doom about the turbos. They are fine, just don't run them outside their envelope & don't abuse the car. Same as anything.

thanks mate for the advice.. im pretty conservative driving my car! im just worried and loosing sleep bout buying a gtr i want it so bad but have heard some horror stories about them. and to make it worse i have a beautiful gtst that i kno is great that ill have to get rid of to get the gtr

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182634-stock-gtr-32/#findComment-3313903
Share on other sites

yes..

gt-ss turbo's are a perfect street turbo from what all owners are saying.

300kw at the wheels is well within reach.

oh excellent that makes me feel alot better and this car is clean as to...

also never been boosted... just hope they go as low as what im offering... and that the check at boostworxs is ok

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182634-stock-gtr-32/#findComment-3313916
Share on other sites

I dont believe that the car has GT-SS turbos and HASNT been boosted

Whos trying to pedal such a lie?

Also, it doesnt matter whether the car has been boosted or not within reason. The motor is more than up to the task.

So long as the check at the workshop goes ok, then buy it if its what you really want

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182634-stock-gtr-32/#findComment-3314027
Share on other sites

I dont believe that the car has GT-SS turbos and HASNT been boosted

Whos trying to pedal such a lie?

Also, it doesnt matter whether the car has been boosted or not within reason. The motor is more than up to the task.

So long as the check at the workshop goes ok, then buy it if its what you really want

Well said. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182634-stock-gtr-32/#findComment-3314030
Share on other sites

When I bought my GTR it was "stock, never boosted..."

yeah right :P

when you start to hunt for power with your car it soon becomes aparent that your "stock" GTR isnt realy very stock at all.

initial purchace will see you needing a full overhaul of the vehicle fluids and filters + a cam belt, budget around $1000 to have it done at a workshop and dialed in on the dyno.

stock GTR's make around 165awk, slightly more with an exaust.

I did the following:

Power FC $1000

cam gears $150

EBC (already fitted but budget for around $500)

Turbo timer (already fitted and not much point using one unless you take your car to the track, budget for around $200)

Gauges (already fitted but you will want these as the stock gauges are crap budget around $500 - $700)

Hi flow cat $400

Dyno time $500 minimum

Labor to fit all this stuff $1000 approx

and then there is all the problems they find like brittle hoses, leaking injectors and the like so make sure you have some cash spare for that.

result?

230awk @ .9bar (everything running at approx 80% capacity ie injectors and AFM's etc)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182634-stock-gtr-32/#findComment-3314117
Share on other sites

Well im looking at a stock GTR 32 for 17k

Its never been dynoed but its stock everything. Except exhaust.

What Kws would it be making roughly?

And when i buy i dont wanna upgrade much so all i plan on doing is

Power Fc + controller

Fuel Pump

Boost Controller

I hope to get away with all that only costing $2000 to buy fit and tune.

What would my figure be roughly then?

Any thing i should upgrade to?

On a stockish GTR;

15psi

New ECU (choose your brand)

zorst

good tune

=260 odd rwkw (on mine 262 exact)

lol i thought that to but he had plans on doing that then the cash ran out. but it even runs stock air cleaner things not pods. evrything looks stock as.

The MINES R34 uses stock airboxes, its not stock :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182634-stock-gtr-32/#findComment-3315420
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...