Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey im probs going to try make my own headers and exhaust my plan is to use the flange of the old headers for the new ones ill weld up and go of the old ones for measurments and what not. i want to use my old cat for the time being and just buy a muffler has anybody tryed doing this and how'd it go??.

Hey mate, ive made a few different sets of headers... if ur handy with a welder and fabrication its not a huge task. But to be honest i only do it when off the shelf stuff isnt a available or a is overly expensive, by the time u buy bends and pipe it ususally doesnt work out much cheaper even getting them at trade prices.

Just too add, there is plenty of info floating around the net on header design, do a bit of research to find out what ur after, eg. length of primary and secondary pipes and collector arrangments.

yeah i agree with both of the above posts. by the time you buy the bends, collectors and piping and spend the time doing it it might be much cheaper and easier to just buy some.

and design can make a big difference. if you get 1 pipe slightly out of place you may have it that it doesn't line up with the rest of the system., and then you end up with an exhaust that hits the body every time you go round a corner. also length of primaries and secondaries can affect torque, etc.

also make sure you get your welds right on your collectors otherwise they will leak.

As well as the length of primary pipes, the size (I.D) of pipe will offer benefits at a different RPM ranges. Helmholz (sp) resonance from what I remember. There is a lot of info out there on correct size/length and design of headers, have a look if your interested in getting the most out of it.

In real terms, the change from a poorly designed cast iron log type header to just an off the shelf primary/secondary header will offer good benefits.

Fixxxer

well i can get a bender so i was just going to bend the metal myself but yea ill do alot of more research first. is there anyplaces that stcok them cheap tho??.

does anyone have a link to this info about length, diameter etc, and effects, as I'm curious

cheers

smaller diameter will give more low down power as the air will syphon itself out better, but you lose top end due to restriction. a bigger pipe will flow better up top but it loses the scavenging effect at low rpm.

if you are bending the pipe yourself without a bender you could end up with a real mess. if you insist on doing it yourself buy some mandrel bends. they will cost you a bit but will come out much nicer.

does anyone have a link to this info about length, diameter etc, and effects, as I'm curious

cheers

Google is ur friend, search header design there is a rediculous amount of material available.

And every weld is a possible stress point. All stress points will fatigue in time=cracks. A good single length mandrel bend pipe eliminates this [except at the flanges and other obvious locations].

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...