Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my car (r33 gtst) was tuned with all the usual mods a few months ago with the stock fuel pump in my r33 gtst. made 209 rwk on 12.5- 13psi ( slide hiflow.) my car was going good. had an occasional splutter through the rev range. changed it 3 days ago (tomei intank) and wow what a difference in power. And no more splutter.

how much power would i expected to gain and is this normal?

thanks :pwned:

Edited by R33GOD
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182813-more-power-after-tomei-pump-install/
Share on other sites

Probably no power increase over all, but its probably running a lot safer now with more punch in the mid-rage? AFR's would probably be a lot better.

But with saying that, you maybe be able to up the boost a little more now, so you will probably seem some better power, but make sure you get it on a dyno sometimes just to check if the AFRs are safe.

The splutter could have been the car leaning out, due to not getting a sufficient amount of fuel from the stock pump. With the TOMEI pump, you get a increase in fuel flow/pressure and its able to maintain a more consistant fuel pressure and prevent it from leaning out.

Something like that!..

Edited by abu
upgrade injectors to Nismo 555cc's and push 18psi through that turbo and you'll hit close to 250rwkw.

have fun

im gettin an injector upgrade in 2 weeks and a new z32afm. i dont want to run that much boost though. keep the boost conservative at 15 or so

Edited by R33GOD
meh. the turbo is built to handle 18psi all day every day. some users on the forum run 20-21 on the oversize variant no probs. your just missing out on power. your choice though :D

15 or 16psi max i want to run with stock internals. want the car to last a very long time :unsure:

back to topic i spoke to my tuner and he told me that there would be atleast a 5rwk gain now with the new pump on the same boost

Edited by R33GOD

yes. I noticed the power difference aswell, after I added my fuel pump also. without changing anything else. Although my difference in power wouldve been less noticable than yours however, because mine was pretty much stock back then, with just fmic and avcr.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...