Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ahhhh lol i just looked again and i saw that there is more, what do they do/what r they for?do they just provide power to the injectors? sorry im new to liner engines and i didnt even know were the injectors were, now i now lol. reason i ask is cos they vibrate/tick wen the engine is running. well i think its them neway

Yep they probably tick when the engine is running, most if not all injectors do. Nothing to be concerned about, they all tick.

The ticking means there working, well its more or less the injector opening and closing, thats the ticking. There spring loaded inside, and its the plunger inside of the injector that moved up and down to allow fuel into the cylinder, I think thats where the ticking occurs!

Plunder opens and closes according to the signals from the ECU.

The plugs to the injectors do supply power to the injectors as well as signals from the ECU about how much fuel to spray in to the cylinder, when and in what order. Those signals are made up from various other things such as airflow (AFM or MAP), throttle position (TPS), coolant temperature sensor, voltage sensor, engine speed sensor etc, etc..

Sensors do all the reading (sensing), and the ECU does the calibrating. I think thats the correct wording!

Edited by abu

thnks man, like i said, im not used to the tecnicals of these hi-tech engines (well high tech to what im used2 lol)

that helps at least i no it aint serious. so im guessing if u undo the screws wher it plugs in2u cn take out the injectors and thats how u put in aftermarket injectors (say 550cc-800cc injectors?)

thnks man, like i said, im not used to the tecnicals of these hi-tech engines (well high tech to what im used2 lol)

that helps at least i no it aint serious. so im guessing if u undo the screws wher it plugs in2u cn take out the injectors and thats how u put in aftermarket injectors (say 550cc-800cc injectors?)

Basically yeah!

Will have to get the car tuned though, so after market ECU, either stand alone or fuel only, or a REMAP of the standard ECU which is starting to get phased in with the R33s.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...