Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, just got new RDA slotted rotors all round and brand new EBC redstuff pads installed yesterday.

After bedding the pads in they have started screeching like crazy, im talking about almost unbearble screech here.

Under hard breaking they only squeal lightly but pulling up to lights is horrendous.

I dont understand the problem, the rotors and pads are brand new.

Does the surface of the new rotors need to wear in or something?

Any help would be appreciated.

CHeers

red stuff is for track use. so alot of those pads squeak ... dnt think there is much u can do. dont use that squeal remover shit.. i heard it does bad things to performance of brakes

Ahh ffs!

Those pads cost me $400, i got them through a group buy on this site.

surely the GB organizer wouldn't have sold me pads that were unsuitable to everyday driving on the street?

The noise is almost unbearable.

i dont mean to be rude at all but did you not at least look them up to make sure that they were gonna be suitable for everyday use/ to suit your needs?

Well seeing as the organizer new that the car was going to be street driven, and said they were a good pad, no, at the time i didn't feel it necessary to do some research on them.

Now, does anyone have anything useful to add to the thread?

Yes, sell them and buy standard nissan pads.

They do the job well for street.

I had some endless pads and they squeaked like crazy!! so i just ended up selling it

hm.. ive been reading about applying anti squeal grease to either sides of the shims, and that this sometimes eliminated squeal.

I'm not just going to give up and sell them seeing as i paid $400 for them.

If need be, ill keep them and use them as a track pad if i ever get to one of the QLD raceway track days.

Ahh ffs!

Those pads cost me $400, i got them through a group buy on this site.

surely the GB organizer wouldn't have sold me pads that were unsuitable to everyday driving on the street?

The noise is almost unbearable.

just think of all the fagots with convertables your going to piss off :)

i do it every day as i've got project mu level max 900 on the fronts and similar on the rear. makes alot of noise

also if you wish to make the a little bit quiter. i beleive you can file away the edges to make them slope down towards the metal backing plate and that will reduce the noise a bit.

Edited by Angus Smart

I have the exact same combination of rotors and pads on my gtr and they hardly squeek. Don't know whats happening with yours mate, but after a short while you will notice that they are not very good from cold and you will need to warm them up a little for them to bite. I won't buy these pads again.

The advise to search for threads to remedy to this problem is a good one. Do a quick search on the site coz i was reading extensively on this a few days ago. Forgot which thread exactly but lots of techniques were described to quieten squealing brakes and apparently most of the time it comes down to piston to metal backing plates on the pads rather than rotor to brake lining friction...or so someone was saying so yeah, just look it up. I have endless CC-X pads on standard albeit resurfaced rotors on my GT-t and they squeal but it's not so bad so it seems to come down to how they were fitted because everyone seems to have different results which does not coincide with the combination of rotor/brake pad.

Good luck

yeah search will give u much more info but to break it down

chamfer leading and trailing edges on brake pad

scuff up brake pad surface with 80 grit sanpaper

use anti-squeal compound on the shims (you do have shims,dont you??)

lubricate all pins etc that need it

machine rotors, or in your case you have new ones

bleed the brakes

do a good bed in session to get them really bed in

thats about all i can think of but yeah i have the same problem (different pads tho) and after about 2 weeks they settled down on their own

damn brakes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! lol good luck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...