Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB25DET S1 with a GT35R

With N1 oil pump, eagle rods and CP pistons whats a fairly safe rev limit on the stock head?

Also if I run the Tomei poncam's with that turbo, what are my realistic gains? who would it effect my red line on the stock valve springs? or is it worth at that stage going with a slightly stiffer set?

I need to get about 8500rpm out of the engine in 2nd and 3rd to make best use of the local track,

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183612-rb25det-cams-and-red-line/
Share on other sites

8500 is too much for a stock head.

You'll be getting valve float etc.

I ran 8000rpm as limit in my stock head and it was ok. But some people have had issues even with that.

So going another 500 isnt going to see things last too long i would imagine

My whole motor has 15 000km's on it, so hopefully my guides ectr are still mint, with a set of poncams and springs fitted, at what sort of RPM can I expect the lifters to let me down?

It will only be needing to go over 8000rpm for maybe 1 or 2 seconds at a time, not very often at that.

What cams and springs are you using? also what turbo?

Im just running out of gear coming into 2 corners at my local track, and a few hundred extra RPM would go a long way, currently a stock RB25 s1 with a GT3076R and loads of supporting mods running 1.4bar, going to be building the motor at the end of the year so trying to get all the parts planned out and on my shelf by then.

My car is not a track car, its an everyday car which i use maybe once a month at the local drag strip or race track,

Currently making 352kw at 1.3bar with:

Stock internaled RB

Greddy intake mani

76mm charge pipes

GT3076R

Tial 38mm gate

PFC

740cc

Meth injection

and the other usual things like pump, ectr,

To be done end of year:

8.5-1 forgies

eagle rods

ARP head studs

ACL race bearings and gaskets

tomei oil restrictor

external oil return

N1 pumps

pump collar

ectr,

Only thing I havent worked out is a good street reliable head combo, I definatly want to go with the poncams for a nice easy to drive setup, but not sure what other tried and tested parts you guys use with the hydro lifters.

Why not change the diff ratio?

Whilst you won't be accelerating AS quick, you won't be running out of puff either.

On the standard cam, I personally don't find all that much power above 6500 compared to if I upshift at 6500RPM.

You need to remember, when you put your power through the different gear ratios, you get a set amount of torque at the rear wheels, and alot of the time (Nearly all the time in stock cams) it's more beneficial to shift a few hundred RPM before the standard redline to get maximum acceleration...

Wheel dyno,

It is a .82 with the 4bolt GT outlet, I run quite a bit of timing to, meth works quite well for that,

http://www.rezlo.com/Pages/silvia.htm that was it a few months ago before the new intake and charge pipes, last video clip is of the current setup, Just had a drag event on sunday, trapping at 209kph at a rather slow 12flat due to some traction issues im working on,

post-38702-1188917121_thumb.jpg

Edited by Rezlo
129.8mph.. I'd say the power is definitely up there. No doubts here.

I also run a Gt3076 .8; looking at water meth in the near future.

Top work.

Thanks, I try to keep it looking as clean as I can.

GT3076R seems to work well with the RB25, but the meth inj made one of the best improvments to my car, I use a devils own progressive kit with #15 nozzel running a 50/50mix, Ive been up to 1.5bar on the streets with 95pump fuel with zero detonation, though only for short bursts as I want to keep the motor together till its time for the build.

Any Idea what the poncams will do spool up and top end wise with my setup? Ill probably go with the tomei springs at the same time, just worried about the added spring presure on the hydro lifters at higher RPM.

Anything else anyone can coment on internal wise ontop of my list above?

Edited by Rezlo

The cams will help hold top end up for longer and improve spool slightly; as you have a short runner plenum this with the cams will allow power to peak a little later as result making a little more peak and possibly improving that TS down the 1/4. :whistling:

Go the springs and cams. The springs won't cause issues with the hyd. lifters.

A set-up that has the potential to do very well.

With your build up consider a series2 crank or a jun style crank collar so you don't go breaking oil pumps. ;)

Head oil restrictors - 1.5mm up front, blocked off rear as per sydneykids recommendation works VERY well.

How hard do you currently rev it? Where does power peak?

Ive got a jun pump drive ready for install, I also have a tomei oil restrictor ready for the rebuild,

Ive currently got my shift light coming on at 7k, shifting at 7200 to 7500 some times 7700 if i dont catch it in time, set the redline up to 8200 so I dont touch it (not a fan of fuel cut at full boost)

At the moment it pulls pretty linear from 6000 up to 7500, I dont feel much drop off at all, If I shift under 6500 it knocks the wind out of it, usualy pretty badly.

My peeve with the setup is that its a touch violent coming into boost, I want to smooth it out especialy in 1st and 2nd to help with traction, and being able to run it up to 8000rpm in 1st and 2nd would help quite a bit, as our tracks arnt that great and you have to work at keeping it tractible even with 275 wide M/T's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...