Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys need ur help

i though i know everything baout skyline models but there is somthing that i didnt know

as far as i know r32 came out with rb20 and rb26(GTR)

and r33 came out rb25 and rb26(GTR)

but my mate told me yeasterday early r33 came out with rb20 standart !!!!!!!!????????

is that true??????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183615-question/
Share on other sites

it has a gtr wing on it, gtr badge in the grill, and a badge on the back that looks like a gtr badge until you get up close and it says gts-r (the r is underneath like a gtr badge)

and i saw it driving the other day. it came flying up the road and i blinked, and when i opened my eyes again it hadn't moved very far from where it was when i shut my eyes. it was going so....... normal speed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183615-question/#findComment-3326900
Share on other sites

straight from the R32 workshop manual

Model : Engine

----------------------------------------

E - FR32 : CA18i

E - HR32 :: \ _ RB20E

E - HCR32 : / RB20DE

E - HCR32 : \_ RB20DET

E - HNR32 : /

E - ECR32 : RB25DE

E - BNR32 : RB26DETT

Edited by QWK32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183615-question/#findComment-3327533
Share on other sites

The 1st character indicates the Displacement Volume

B = 2600cc(2568cc,RB26DETT)

E = 2500cc(2498cc,RB25DE)

H = 2000cc(1998cc,RB20DET,RB20DE,RB20E)

F = 1800cc(1809cc,CA18i)

The 2nd Character indicates the Drivetrain Options

C = HICAS included on model

N = ATTESA (GT-R, GTS-4, Autech)

The rest of the characters are the Model Code (ie R32)

i have a HCR32 :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183615-question/#findComment-3328297
Share on other sites

Don't GTR's come with hicas and attessa also?

ah true - didn't realise (i thought attessa did the four wheel steering in gtrs)

so if a gtr can have attessa and hicas what does attessa actually do?

(i know hicas does the stearing of the rear wheels - this is what i removed in my gtst)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183615-question/#findComment-3330334
Share on other sites

attessa is the variable torque split controller isn't it? The thing that sets power to the front when u lose traction

Why do ppl remove the Hicas on the GTR's? Because it is problem prone or because some people can tell the difference on a track with the rear wheel steering? I never removed it on my gtst but was always curious as to exactly how unstable it made the car feel as compared to without it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183615-question/#findComment-3330504
Share on other sites

Attessa is just the 4wd system isn't it? It controls how much torque to put to the front wheels when losing rear end traction.

I think people remove the hicas because you don't know when it's going to 'turn on' during a turn and makes the car unstable. Without the hicas I assume you would have more control over the car. You'll know if it's going to go sideways and not just stop half way.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183615-question/#findComment-3330873
Share on other sites

hicas do often give problems i was led to believe but mine gave none.

removed it for better feel as you dont know when the rear is gonna turn,

and sometimes when it happens you think its the back loosing traction so

you try to correct it - yeah its just crap (IMO)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183615-question/#findComment-3331085
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...