Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How much modification to things like gearbox mounts and engine mounts is required for this swap? I had a guy tell me today there was some needed as well as tailshaft modification.

I was thinking in giving it a go myself but time is whats stopping me, I need the car on the road, I might be able to pull the 20 myself, cause I have a fair few people interested in buying it anyway, maybe rent one of those cranes to do it and then itd be just a matter of chucking the 25 in, hmm it all sounds so so easy on paper :P

Luke, I spoke to David on the phone if that helps, I dont see them dropping the price too much but hey its worth a try,

Cheers guys

Ric

How much modification to things like gearbox mounts and engine mounts is required for this swap? I had a guy tell me today there was some needed as well as tailshaft modification.

I was thinking in giving it a go myself but time is whats stopping me, I need the car on the road, I might be able to pull the 20 myself, cause I have a fair few people interested in buying it anyway, maybe rent one of those cranes to do it and then itd be just a matter of chucking the 25 in, hmm it all sounds so so easy on paper :P

Luke, I spoke to David on the phone if that helps, I dont see them dropping the price too much but hey its worth a try,

Cheers guys

Ric

if u keep the 20 box u have nothing to do to the tailshaft, if u put the 25box in u have to mod tailshaft, speedo etc

Well I havent been able to source an RB25 gearbox yet. Only one i have found, they are asking $1700....... + $2600 engine + metal headgasket +PFC + labour costs + tune = too much, cant afford it right now :nyaanyaa:

So I have decided to put that engine swap on hold for a while until I get some money togheter, and get the box rebuilt or get another RB20 box.

Having said that, where would be a good place to take the box to get it checked? someone that knows this boxes of course... has anyone done this before?

Cheers

Ric

Edited by Richo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This sounds like someone who would have owned an R33 in their past... It's okay, I'm 100% picking up what you're putting down Mark.
    • Just back on what was raised about jacking off the the tow/tie down point on the front of cars. I've used it plenty. I've also watched it on a car where you could see it move the front end of the car. It was like the front end/whole car being tweaked and twisted a bit. I will say, I struggle to find good jacking points on MOST cars. The ones that have good points, I then normally struggle to find a jack tall enough to make the car change height!   One of my go to points for either the jack, or the axel stands though, is either a suspension pickup point, OR a subframe to chassis major bolting point. I actually think its the subframe on my R33 that has a bit of a bend in it, from being jacked in the middle too. However, it could have been one of my many other cars I've had over the years! Or it could also be the from me jacking it up, and the fact the top of the front radiator support isn't there, so it can allow the front of the car to move and bend etc.
    • My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
×
×
  • Create New...