Jump to content
SAU Community

Indicators Tripping Me Out!

ICER33

By ICER33,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

BH_SLO32 Proficient

BH_SLO32

Posted
Posted
hey i have got a problem wiht my indicators.

all globes work, but they are crazy fast, however when i put my hazards on they are normal. any one got some suggestions???

cheers

A common problem with the 33's is a shorting that occurs at the base of the indicator stalk due to wear. I am assuming you can hear the flasher unit clicking but probably don't actually have the indicators flashing? There are some sliding contacts at the base of the indicator stalk that wear and eventually the small amount of plastic separating the contact strips melts and a small shortcircuit results. Eventually you will see smoke from the buring plastic emitted from the base of the indicator stalk.

Do a search because I directed someone else to this problem in 2005 and he took pictures of the repair process. I personally can't recall how I solved the problem and can only recall cleaning the contacts ( I did a quick fix on the side of the road).

Hope this helps.

Cheers

infamous_t Veteran

infamous_t

Posted
Posted

Most flashers are load based (expensive ones that aren't are rarely used OEM), basically you don't have enought load, maybe a globe has gone (is it both sides? Left & Right?), sometimes after ppl install LED globes without resistor packs or equiv. other wise check wiring.

But given you hazards are fine(uses same flasher unit as individual left and right), it seems the problem lies with the indicator stalk.

engo Rising Star

engo

Posted
Posted

try re conecting the wires into the back of it.... i had that problem ... i just re did all the wries to the front indicators and it worked fine... ( i too had the same problem of the hazards being normal)... maybe give that a try... bastards of things

  • 2 weeks later...
Fry_33 Proficient

Fry_33

Posted
Posted

I haven't had this problem with my skyline but I did with my old car. The problem was a bad earth, fixed that and it was all good. I'd just do the simple things first like check all connections etc. after that you may need to check the flasher etc. Swap with a mates one if you can to test it.

Good luck

P4t Contributor

P4t

Posted
Posted

yeh, ive got the same problem all the globes work at normal speed with hazard lights but only when i indicate right it goes double the speed, its fkn annoying i find myself avoiding turning right all the time due to embarasment.

darkhorse Enthusiast

darkhorse

Posted
Posted

I have the same problem. they flech really fast left and right, but hazard lights work at normal speed. i checked the fron indicators and only two of the three wires are connected to the after market indicator on my body kit... i'm assuming that the wires that are not connected to the indicators are shortening the circit? what do i do with the left over wires? any opinion?

cheers in advance~!!

Fry_33 Proficient

Fry_33

Posted
Posted
I have the same problem. they flech really fast left and right, but hazard lights work at normal speed. i checked the fron indicators and only two of the three wires are connected to the after market indicator on my body kit... i'm assuming that the wires that are not connected to the indicators are shortening the circit? what do i do with the left over wires? any opinion?

cheers in advance~!!

I'd check out what is going on with the wires with preferably a multimeter or a test light. Find out whether the wires are supplying power or meant to earth the circuit. I'm not fantastic with electrical problem solving so I'm sure someone will correct me at some point.

If there is a plug to your indicator disconnect it and see what each one does when the indicator is switched on. The disconnected wire could possibly be a missing earth wire? Is it possible to connect the 3 wires to the indicators?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...