Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there! HELP ME PLEASE BEFORE I GET RIPPED OFF!

I have tried looking in the maintenance forum, but I haven't been able to find what I am looking for. Most of the indicators in the dash a rather self explanatory, but there is one in particular which is between the oil and the battery I think. It is red and looks like a square thing with some wavy lines. I would be much appreciated if someone could clear up exactly what each of the dash indicators means. I can suss the handbreak etc, but the others I am trying to work out what they mean. The one I described in particular flashes when I start my car. I haven't noticed it do that before so I am hoping it is not the alternator. I borrowed one of those battery testers with alternator check and it said my alternator was fine. I just want to get a feel for what is going wrong (battery or whatever) before I go to an auto elec and get ripped off. I am not that cluey with cars but I am trying to learn.

Any help would be greatly appreciated guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184106-dashboard-indicators-r33-s2-skyline/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
    • Shimmed or shimless, still solid, no hydraulic pump up stuff.
    • They have said food will be limited. Mainly meat pies and sausage rolls from memory. But they have a coffee van!
×
×
  • Create New...