Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all

i have a r32 gts4, recently did some brake upgrades which include:

RDA slotted / dimpled rotors all round, braided lines, cusco master cyl stopper, r32 gtr front calipers and ds2500 pads and new motul fluid.

the brakes seem to work quite well now, unless i hit the brakes quite hard and the rears lock up and the car has abs..

never needed to hit the brakes hard b4 the upgrade so dont know if the abs was working before.

the car has had a rb26 conversion, maybe thats got sumthin to do with it?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184259-r32-abs-rears-locking-up/
Share on other sites

Check the obvious stuff like speed sensor is still hooked up and the diff sensor is plugged in. If the wiring for the swap has been done properly it shouldn't contribute, but it's pretty common to have no speed sensor connected to the ecu after a swap.

R32 GT-R's brakes are somewhat rear biased and usually lock the rears first. So what you are experiencing is nothing abnormal, unless ofcourse it is happening with very little retardation.

Some questions:

How firm is the pedal?

Does the ABS release the wheel, ie do you get the usual ABS feedback through the pedal, albeit at a slow rate because the system is pretty slow?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...