Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello,

im in the market for new wheels for my r33 gtr so i need a few questions answered

i prefer somethin with dish

my question is does all four wheels need to be the same size eg width

same tyre size on all four wheels?

or can i use a 18x9.5 wheel up front and 18x10.5 on the rears but with the same size tyre?

what have you guys got on your gtr's?

thankyou!

Your tyres have to be the same width because if they're not, it can stuff up your attessa. I'm not too sure on whether you can run the same width tyres on a different width rim.

Adam surprised at your answer considering you own a GTS4.

The main criteria is the ROLLING DIAMETER/CIRCUMFERENCE has to be the same.

If not the AWD clutch will cook as it will be actuated slightly all the time.

Thats why in a GTR/GTS4 you know if one of your tyres is going flat. ;)

Agreed, pretty sure only the diameters have to be the same.

I am running 265/35R18's at the moment, not sure about rim dimensions.

The rear rims do have a different offset to my fronts, they appear more dished(stick out further) and I am not having any issues.

I've got 255s all round but I doubt you have to have the same width, as im sure with hard cornering or lots of camber, driveway edges, etc... not all of the tyre will be on the ground at the same time. TurboX has the right of it, although I never thought about it until I read this thread...just always made sure my tyres where at correct pressures as its not good regardless to be driving around on a flat tyre.

Cheers!

Gagz

Adam surprised at your answer considering you own a GTS4.

The main criteria is the ROLLING DIAMETER/CIRCUMFERENCE has to be the same.

If not the AWD clutch will cook as it will be actuated slightly all the time.

Thats why in a GTR/GTS4 you know if one of your tyres is going flat. :(

I'm only 17 and haven't yet had a chance to experiment. :rofl: Most of the info I give is from what I've read. My bad for giving shit information. :wacko:

It is highly advisable to have same size wheels and same size tyres (lost count of how many times this has been said!). It is possible to have different size tyres, but they will likely be different brand / style between front and back. There's a lot of stuffing around working out and matching rolling diameters.

Same size tyres on different width rims might have different rolling diameters.

The advantage of all rims same size is you can swap front <-> back to even out tyre wear.

The ATTESSA clutch is in the transfer case, on the side of the gearbox.

As long as the larger rolling diameter is on the rear, attessa will not chuck a wobbly. If the smaller rolling diameter is on the rear it will detect it as a loss of traction and attempt to engage.

My car with new 325/45/17's on the front and worn 235/45/17's (although different brands) on the back was getting a surging both on the torque gauge and seat of the pants at highway speeds. Thats all the difference it takes.

james.

Edited by heller44

Depends on your rolling diameter, not the width of the tyre..

Since 95sky's car is running the same sidewall percentage with wider at the back, attessa always sees the back running a bit slower than the front. No problem. It is when you do something like 245/35/18 front and 275/30/18 rear that it will be enough that it may freak.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

go here and put the two tye sizes in, If the back ends up smaller in diameter than the front, you will have issues.

james.

Edited by heller44

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...