Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, my R33 keeps shaking including the steering wheel only when im doing between 108km - 120km then after that its fine. I just got the car alligned and balanced and it fixed it for the day then its back to its shaking self again after the next day.

any suggestions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184633-wheelcar-shaking-between-108-120kmh/
Share on other sites

Check the virtical control arm between the upper and hub for play. The load bearing in there may have play and cause vibration due to wheel instability. You should also check your castor rods to see if the bushes are split and leaking oil. Failing that, I would be looking for a strut failure or leak.

Just a thought but the weights from the wheel balancing hasnt come off has it? Happened to mine and since it fixed itself for the day maybe it came off after the day.

Edited by G_Force
When they did the wheel allignment the bushes were leaking a bit- but they tightened it up and said it was all good.

If all the wheels are balanced, i would be checking the steering rack bushes or check if there is play in the rack ends, ive just a real bad case of the my friends car shaking very violently, found the steering rack bushes were disintergrated and tightening them wouldnt do a thing. You can get these bushes of ebay, pretty cheap, look for d-project bushes. hope that helps

how long has it been happening before balancing? maybe rims wasn't put back on properly. Do you have aftermarket rims? check if the centre hub is the right size, otherwise the rim won't be truely centered, and 5 studs won't be strong enough to keep it centred after driving for some time. it only takes just a few 0.xx mm off the centre to cause vibration. It happened to me when upgrading my stock rims to aftermarket, need to go back to the rim shop to get some centering hubs.

or perhaps the rotors need machining? with my old rotors that fixed the vibration for quite a while (until I swap to 17" rims - then it became the rims' problem).

well if as you say the wheel alignment fixed it then I'd go with the wheel alignment bolt not being tightened up correctly and has come loose after a day returning you to your previous settings. Get it re-aligned at the workshop or at least go back there to tell them the problems back

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...