Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I just spent all bloody weekend installing my new sound system into my R34. eclipse 2way splits in the doors and then yesterday the headunit and amp. long story short at 11pm last night i connected the battery and the amp buzzed and then produced quite a large amount of smoke :) I put my crappy $100 boss amp in its place and it worked fine. also tested the ground again and its fine. I put the eclipse amp back in and it worked! WTF? I have disconnected it and am taking it back. better be replaced under warranty. has anyone else had an amp smoke like that and then work fine afterwards?

None of the fuses blew. I only had the two front channels hooked up and nothing in the rear channels. :action-smiley-069:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185324-weird-amp-fault/
Share on other sites

I have never had a faulty amp straight out of the box, especially a brand name like Eclipse.

Yeah I've never had that happen before either. I've done heaps of installs and this is the first time I've actually spent money on some decent quality gear and to have this happen really pi$$es me off. I always do everything really slowly and more than tripple check things because I'm always afraid I'll forget something and I did that even more this time since it aint cheap stuff I'm using. I even got my housemates to check everything over a couple of times to make sure it was all correct before connecting the battery. The only other time I've had an amp go was when a mate shorted the battery with a socket wrench. Was his stuff though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185324-weird-amp-fault/#findComment-3353549
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I've had shit smoke and work fine... normally it is wires inside the unit heating up and either burning off plastic or bits of itself, but it still has connectivity... so it still technically works...

Most places are fine with amplifier warranty, but only warrant the subs if installed proffesionally...

Bet it scared the shit out of you though huh :bunny:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185324-weird-amp-fault/#findComment-3386583
Share on other sites

Ive got 4ga from battery with an 80amp fuse thru to boot and that splits into 2x 8ga via a distro block to both the eclipse amp and my crappy boss amp. these both have 8ga grounded to the same point. also i have a 60amp fuse inline for the eclipse which can draw 90 and a 40 on the boss which can draw 60 so aint gonna be maxin out the amps ever. been working fine since so not too worried anymore but yeah i needed to change my pants. :bunny:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185324-weird-amp-fault/#findComment-3386842
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The cross sectional area of a circular hole scales with the square of diameter. So a 2mm diameter hole is 4x the area of a 1mm hole. Not double. The 1.7mm hole is nearly 3x the area of a 1mm hole. You do not need restrictors at both ends of the oil supply line. If you have new, additional restrictors at the turbo end, that you did not have before, then you do not need a restrictor at the inlet end.
    • Hi all. Been a while but things are moving along. I just have something that I am wondering about. Since I will use OEM turbo oil pumbing, I got myself a new bolt, the one that goes into the engine block oil feed. As I recall (and see visually) this bolt comes restricted with I think a 1.7mm hole? Not quite sure but it was something around that size. The turbos have 1mm restrictor bolts installed, as necessary due to ball bearings and my higher oil pressures. Can I now just use that OEM bolt with the 1.7mm hole in for the engine block or will this actually be too much oil flow restriction and I have to drill it out first? In my head it would make sense for the bolt to be at least 2mm wide as both turbos take "1mm of oil flow". Do let me know if my logic is flawed here, I just want to make sure I don't kill my turbo bearings with too little oil. Don't know if I can trust the saying I read somewhere that ball bearing turbos essentially only need an oil mist
    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
×
×
  • Create New...