Jump to content
SAU Community

Pedders, Your Experiances?

Fishpaste~

By Fishpaste~,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted (edited)
Hey,

The guy from adealide tyre power have recomended i take my car to a pedders to get some work done on it, and i was just wonderingif anyone has used one and their thoughts?

thanks

Used the guys at Pedders prospect about 6 months ago to check out the issues with my suspension on my VN Commodore. They nailed it down to a hell of a lot of dodgy bushes and a stuffed steering rack... they charged around $1000 to replace all the bushes, still havent bothered to replace the rack ;P.... dunno how good they'd be with R32's but I was pretty happy with their service!

Cheers

-D

Edit: I will however be taking the R32 there in a couple weeks, they only charge $50 or so for a full suspension/bushes checkout.

Edited by Dohmar
Hotwire Veteran

Hotwire

Posted
Posted

Never actually used them, but have had pleasant experiences when getting quotes etc. with Action Suspension at Edwardstown. Seem like they know thier stuff VERY well, and do a lot of suspension work for insurance companies/crash repairers etc.

May be another option?

GTS_Retro Enthusiast

GTS_Retro

Posted
Posted

get the $14 inspection so you can get a list of part needing replacing, also take it with a pintch of salt. they tend to over quote. I have new kyb's,king springs and sway bars. apparently the shocks are leaking already and the sway bar bushes are gone..haha about a year old and only done about 7k on road. but they did find my problem and i had that fixed by someone cheaper i sourced the parts myself. I did in the end replace my sway bar bushes to a stiffer compound but there was nothing wrong with the old ones.

Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted
the guys at adealide tyre power beleive something (forgot what, im sooo bad with names) has been pushed back and isnt letting me get enough -ve caster...

Heya

I think theyre probably referring to the suspension plate... When I crashed my r31 into a kerb, the entire plate was pushed back, it required unbolting from the chassis and the boltholes reinforced. Before I got it fixed the castor was totally screwed and the guys at Bob Janes couldnt prevent the wheels scraping the inner guard (I hit at 80kph or so, unsurprisingly the suspension needed looking at)

I'm with Madaz. Those plates dont just move... its possibly pushed back due to incorrect suspension setup but more likely to have taken a hit to dislodge it.

Isnt very expensive to fix, just has to be unbolted and rebolted (if the plate itself hasnt sustained damage). My panel beater/mechanic/handyman at the time fixed it within an hour one saturday arvo...

-D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...