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hey guys

wasnt too sure where to post this so if im in the wrong section please inform me where to put it, cheers,

anyways was at dyno yesterday n went to put in O2 sensor for the computer (wide band perhaps) and the dude said it was seized.. so whats the best way to remove it? can it be removed? if i did it first thing in the morning when its cold would it make a difference?

just keen to know as i was goin to put new dump on n glad i found this out before i started

thanks for any help

Edited by 2gceffy
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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185549-seized-o2-sensor-update/
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i just took my 17 year old ones outta stock dumps.

I left them soaking over night in wd-40.

In the morning i used an open-ended spanner and put a 1 foot extension piece on the end of the spanner. The old man stood on the dumps and i yanked as hard as i could

They came off quite easily after that

mine got stuck in a stainless pipe, heated it up with a butane burner and got it out but it left most of the thread stuck in the pipe was a bit of a mess it seemed like they had actually melted together just got it re-tapped and all was good

hint: use anti-seize with the new O2 sensor, I learnt that the hard way.

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins

mmm...I only sprayed some WD40 and proceed to remove it with the O2 sensor socket (with 1" spanner)...it came out very easy...

Last time I went to autobarn, I saw this product that is suppose to freeze the nut that seized (make it shrink or something?) to make it easier to remove?

when i install the new dump what gaskets are needed? turbo to dump and is there one for dump to front pipe? i used some of that gold loctite gasket stuff on my dump to front n it hasnt leaked in over 6 months.. but i want to have everything perfect no cuttin corners

cheers

I have used INOX in the past FTW. Spray it on, let it soak, spray on some more, let it soak again and try to losen it. An extension may help give you more leverage. Sometimes you could apply as much constant force as you can to some thing and not budge it but if you provide a shock load ie a quick snap of the force then it can help to break the seal (hopefully just the seal).

Last time I went to autobarn, I saw this product that is suppose to freeze the nut that seized (make it shrink or something?) to make it easier to remove?

Loctite freeze n release... meant to freeze it to something like -42 degrees and lubricate it at the same time. Haven't tried it yet so don't know how well it works. Might be worth a shot though.

if you need to keep your old one than best is to get a ring spanner that has a slot in it (good quality one, china ones will just bend and round the bolt) or i have seen a special tool for the job as well, sort of like a socket with a slit in it like this

http://www.autobarn.net/lis12100.html

using an open ended spanner if its seized can make the problem worse but rounding it

if you don't need it anymore, cut the wires and use a socket

and as mentioned before, needs to soak in wd40 or the like and use a breaker bar if you don't have enough leverage

I just removed mine today and replaced it with an NTK one, does anyone know if these are any good? or how long their lifespan is?

BTW I just removed it when the car was hot and sprayed heaps of WD40 on it, and it came off quite easily.. (make sure you use some kind of protective gloves if you do it while the dump and turbo are hot).

for the gaskets - definitely just go with nissan - they're crushed steel style gasket so you shouldn't re-use an old one

my old one looked fine but i had already bought one from nissan [$35 or something!]

can't remember if i put any gasket maker on it as well....probably not needed.

i also got my O2 off with a regular open ended spanner and some wd40 - pretty easy - i think it's been said before of difficult to remove bolts etc - "get to the chym girly man!"

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