Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Skit 31.

What cams are you running? Duration/Lift? :(

Got any audio/vids of how it lopes over? Very keen to have a listen.

I dont as of yet, but will do soon, ill post a clip soon, got a mandrel 3" exhaust, massive long hotdog and magnaflow mandrel centre-offset muffler, being fed from some Jasma Extractors (damn they are nice! 6-----2-1 emptying in 3") - and yes it needed the 3", lost nothing down low, gained sooo much up top, deep and angry note

The Cams arent that impressive, 255deg & 8.3mm, with adj cam gears, but its still lumps happily (@ ~ 700rpm) making peak power at about 6500rpm now, give me a couple weeks and ill have a film clip of it on the dyno, oh i cant wait for that...

Edited by SKiT_R31
  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

cheers SKiT_R31!!!!!!!!!!!!!thats made it a little easier! lol............i already take my car to 1000-1500 rpm for take off.........so i should be fine when i get the flywheel!!

:whistling:

  • 2 months later...

hey guys, been reading this thread and was planning to get a lightened flywheel myself but since going through how it will reduce torque and be crap uphill i have some doubts lol.

I have come across this billet steel flywheel on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Billet-Steel-Light-...bayphotohosting

i have a NA r33s2 gts4, i will be changing to an exedy sports organic clutch coupled with a lightended flywheel. I just need some recommendations on what weight flywheel would be ideal i,e wont die too much uphill and launches/take off, would a 5-5.5kg flywheel such as that one in link above be ok?, or am i better off gettin the more expensive 6.6kg? exedy flywheels?

thanks for any help! :rofl:

Edited by OoskylineoO

Since my last post on this thread I have had my toda light weight flywheel with a organic clutch and heavy duty pressure plate installed. Gota say I'm impressed with the results the car feels so much more responsive, and is much faster over taking and coming out of the corners, it revs up much quicker.

I was concerned about how the car would react on the hills but I was surprised there's very little difference as long as you keep constant pressure on the throttle, if you reduce the pressure on the throttle the car will slow down much quicker than it use to going up hills, but a quick down shift and stand on the go pedal and the car moves along quite nicely. I haven't tested it on the race track yet, but will next month.

i have a lightweight flywheel and let me tell you there is no loss in torque. it revs up quicker and is generally more fun to drive. the only disadvantage is slightly higher revs required to takeoff (talking like 50rpm more) - really only noticeable when taking off on a hill. hope this helps

  • 2 weeks later...

hey everyone the lightened flywheel and clutch will be going in on thursday next week - a long with some new front shocks too.....

soooo im going with the chrome moly lightened flywheel (approx 5.5 kg) with a heavy duty ceramic cushioned button clutch - only reason im going with this one is i will need somethng that is gonna be strong on the track when i use the nitrous oxide system. and speaking to alot of people they all said to go with the ceramic cushioned clutch.

nice work cara, eagerly awaiting results.

is your car still a daily driver? i don't know why you are so adamant on the button clutch. if you do more street driving than track, then i guarantee you will end up driving like/slipping like its a regular h/d clutch. of course the clutch is stronger, but your damaging the other components by increasing unnecessary wear and tear.

they're really more of an on/off type thing, but hey if your not paying for it then sweet.

p.s. - upgrade your pressure plate!

I had a button clutch in my car for the past 5 years, great for the track but not the best for a daily driver they take a lot of getting use to, and in bumper to bumper traffic jams they can lead to some pretty embarising bunny hops and stalling issues, and they chew the crap out of your flywheel and pressure plate too, I've got pics if you would like to see.

I've just recently changed to an organic and H/D pressure plate and toda flywheel it's so much more drivable on the street, guess I'll find out what it's like on the track in the weekend lol

wont i get a new pressure plate with the clutch kit?

yes she still is the daily.

apparantly the cushioned heavy duty clutch has a lot more give than what the normal heavy duty ceramic button clutch has

Between the solid button and cushioned I've noticed next to no difference.

I origionally had the Xtreme 9puk cushioned ceramic which was grabby; compared to the Exedy 4puk GTR solid ceramic I'm not running I find the Exedy clutch is more progressive and smoother but grabs a hell of a lot harder when you want it too. Personally I prefer the Exedy Solid. Much nicer feeling clutch.

In short the clutch can be ridden very easily BUT riding a ceramic clutch will kill it VERY quickly so don't ride them; slight rev increase then simply pop it out which often than not causes a slight chirp of the tyres.

Driving the 9puk as above I managed 70,000km's out of it where as I've known some who only get 20-40,000km's driving the clutch as you would an organic.

I've had organics last 100,000km's.

hey guys i just spoke to a guy at adelaide clutch services

the clutch kit comes with an upgraded pressure plate.

the lightened flywheels are made to go with the cermaic clutches

the pedal pressure is about standard, therefore it wont add to much pressure to the hydraulic system etc.

if i was to go with the organic clutch, it probably wont last very long with the nos kit on the track.

yes the clutch will be more aggressive on take off but i just need to get a little more revs :)

i told him that it was a n/a r34 with nos kit lol

hey guys i just spoke to a guy at adelaide clutch services

the clutch kit comes with an upgraded pressure plate.

the lightened flywheels are made to go with the cermaic clutches

the pedal pressure is about standard, therefore it wont add to much pressure to the hydraulic system etc.

if i was to go with the organic clutch, it probably wont last very long with the nos kit on the track.

yes the clutch will be more aggressive on take off but i just need to get a little more revs :)

i told him that it was a n/a r34 with nos kit lol

My button clutch feels lighter then my mates old stocker clutch.

Yet, I still tore the bracket off the top of the fire wall...

Be aware, the button does more then just put strain on your drive line.

It'll chew tyres, it makes parking a bitch, bumper to bumper traffic WILL send you insane, and basically no one else will be able to drive it.

It also makes quick take offs at the lights ALOT harder without frying up a set of tyres.

I have a button in my R33 with a 4.8KG flywheel... The button clutch is coming out hopefully when new motor goes in, and I'll be headed for an organic.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...