Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just purchased a pfc for a r33 and installed it all working good execpt its not displaying the speed on the hand controller is this normal? Has anyone else had this problem? did a search but came up empty handed.. dash speedo is working ok however i just installed the amec 300km/h kit and was hoping to check the accuracy of the speedo with the pfc. any help will be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185738-pfc-speed-signal/
Share on other sites

I just purchased a pfc for a r33 and installed it all working good execpt its not displaying the speed on the hand controller is this normal? Has anyone else had this problem? did a search but came up empty handed.. dash speedo is working ok however i just installed the amec 300km/h kit and was hoping to check the accuracy of the speedo with the pfc. any help will be appreciated.

when you say its not displaying the speed, do you mean

a) it shows the speed on the hand controller display at 0km/hr at all times

b) there is no indicator of km/hr on your controller display?

if its a) i cant help you, but if its b) you just need to set it to display the speed :thumbsup: i havent touched my controller in ages so cant tell you step by step but its simple.

ok the speed diplayed on the pfc handcontroller doesnt move from 0 km/h I have changed the cluster for another one as my tacho was dead but I changed it for another 33 turbo one but thats all I can think of been the problem

"The PFC speed signal is from the gauge cluster so it won't read any differently."

to install the 300k dials you have to pull the needles off and put them back on i want the pfc to display speed so I can check I put them on in the right place

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins

Ok hope this solves it for ya, i had a similar problem. If you still have the speed signal wire connected to the Power FC (wire #53) then it should work for you, just disconnect the battery and connect it back up again after a few mins (you can open a door or pump the brakes a few times to get rid of any power still going through the car). This should do a full reset and hopefully your Power FC should display speed again.

Does your HICAS light come on after a few mins of driving?

pretty sure its connected, wire 53 is "Hicas Diagnostic wire/speed limiter" speed limiter worked with stock ecu

i took my hicas light out when I changed the cluster as im going to remove it shortly (lockbar) and didnt want it glowing maybe i will stick the bulb back in

I'll try a battery disconnect/drain, what exactly am I resetting hi-cas computer? its such a pain in the ass getting to my battery with the stereo mounted to the back board....

replaced hicas bulb and yes it does come on after a few minutes driving and heavy steering too how long did you disconnect for I did for like 20 seconds while the headlights were on but still had the problem. will disconnect for longer this time

cheers

if the hand controller is displaying 0kmh then it dosent have a speedo signal or its scrambled

typical such instances would be smoeones installed a speed cut device and hacked the wiring

or someone has cut wire 53. nothing else would cause this so check wire 53

dont bother with the hicas shit, we know wire 53 is cut, so focus no that

dont bother draining the battery, will achieve a big fat zero

The PFC speed signal is from the gauge cluster so it won't read any differently.

Not true. I have a RB25 motor/tranny in my R32 with a chopped/hybrid speed sensor in the tranny. It now has the cable output going into the dash. Even with the speedo disconected (read broken), my PFC told me how fast I was going and the speedo said bupkiss.

seems that the signal goes to the hicas for the variable steering weight then feeds to the ecu for the speed limiting function this is only a guess is there anyone with wire diagrams that can confirm this

Even with the speedo disconected (read broken), my PFC told me how fast I was going and the speedo said bupkiss.

:thumbsup:

seems that the signal goes to the hicas for the variable steering weight then feeds to the ecu for the speed limiting function this is only a guess is there anyone with wire diagrams that can confirm this

If your keen, the pin outs will be in the service manual for your car.

ok got it working disconnected battery for half hour and is now working go figure....

I have a cap so that might of been holding a bit of charge...

thanks for all the help guys

Told ya :D

Pretty much the reason it does this is because if it has been cut and it accidently earthed out or touched another wire or something it would stopped getting a signal. When u disconnect the battery it resets the ECU and the wire gets the signal again ;) Same thing happened to me while wiring in a SAFC, accidently cut through the speed signal wire and it stopped the speed signal and because HICAS needs a speed signal to operate it malfunctions aswell.

Ahhh the joys of wiring....

neither of mine work :D

-actually the speedo works ,but only after giving the car heaps . like at a track day ... anyideas

PFC reads 0kmh

Dash reads 0kmh

Pretty much the speed signal from the gearbox goes to the dash, then it goes from the dash to the ECU (wire #53) then goes to the hicas computer in your boot. So if your dash reads 0kmh, the problem is obviously lying between the gearbox and the dash.

You said the speedo works after giving the car heaps, so maybe there is a lose wire behind the dash and when u hit a corner hard the wire is getting connected back up or something and working again. Anyway id be looking at the speed signal from the gearbox to the dash.

Hope that helps mate.

maybe I accidently shorted it putting the pfc in was lazy and never disconnected the battery because it such a pain to get in my boot, come to think of it I had a blown 'engine control fuse' what ever that is but it sure as hell made the pfc not work there was some serious clicking going on though

thanks pm-r33

maybe I accidently shorted it putting the pfc in was lazy and never disconnected the battery because it such a pain to get in my boot, come to think of it I had a blown 'engine control fuse' what ever that is but it sure as hell made the pfc not work there was some serious clicking going on though

thanks pm-r33

Haha, no worries champ :D

  • 2 weeks later...
maybe I accidently shorted it putting the pfc in was lazy and never disconnected the battery because it such a pain to get in my boot, come to think of it I had a blown 'engine control fuse' what ever that is but it sure as hell made the pfc not work there was some serious clicking going on though

thanks pm-r33

Hmmm...

The speed sensor on a R32 takes the analog signal from the gearbox then sends that to the HICAS, ECU & Power Steer units.

the 4WD sensors are wheel mounted from memory.

Anyway, if you swapped instrument cluster, the new cluster may be working, but may have a faulty, damaged or missing speed sensor unit inside it! search for my name and speed sensor, there is a post on how to swap the sensors over, if you have the old one still I imagine you should be able to swap sensors and fix the problem in under an hour!!!

If the heavy steering and hicas problem has come about since the speedo swap this would make sense, and also stop the data going to the ECU for your powerfc, but if the problem had been there for a long time i imagine it is your loom that is damaged.

Good luck!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...