Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well guys.... I opened the PFC up when I got home from work just then and was greeted by the extremly stong smell of burnt out electrics, so my worst fears have come to be, while I cant actually see anything on it burnt it has the very distinct smell of when electronics are fried.

Is it possible to have these things fixed does anyone know of anybody in the Sydney area that can fix them?

If not what are my other options I cant go back to stock ecu as I have aftermarket turbo, injectors, z32 afm etc etc.

Thanks

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hmm that sucks. You can go back to standard ecu if you want they can be remapped. since its an rb20 you have buckelys of getting a pfc for a decent price.

btw putting the battery terminals on backwards is only dumb, not stupid. leaving a washer in the intake when you bolt it back up destroying your motor AND turbos is stupid.

lol.. :wave:

No fuel pump buzz, no pfc h/c display, car cranks for eternity; sounds very familiar.

Don't ask how I know this but take it to an elec. shop with the ecu pinout and they will fix it. Should cost around $100 to fix. :)

From memory the resistor on the main line is the one that dies.

Also check the main 75amp fuse within the engine bay relay box; that 'should' also be blown. The 75amp fuse isn't cheap either.

i know the shipping cost will probably double the price, but there is someone on Ebay.co.uk selling the fuses for £2.50 each...

i bought 2 30A from them and they are selling all for the same price.

lol.. :)

No fuel pump buzz, no pfc h/c display, car cranks for eternity; sounds very familiar.

Don't ask how I know this but take it to an elec. shop with the ecu pinout and they will fix it. Should cost around $100 to fix. :)

From memory the resistor on the main line is the one that dies.

Also check the main 75amp fuse within the engine bay relay box; that 'should' also be blown. The 75amp fuse isn't cheap either.

Haha Cubes you did the same thing did you?? Yeah after closer inspection I discovered the the 75amp fuse was blown managed to pick one up from Repco for $11.

Now I will look into getting it repaired I hope it isnt too far fried beyond repair, does anyone know where I can get this ECU pinout so I can take it to an electronics shop with me?

Was talking to my old man about this one, he is a micro lecy from way back. he was saying that all cars have whats called "crowbar" protection, bascially there should be so many fail safes and stuff between the bat and your ECU that it shouldn't be damaged.

if your low on cash is prolly worth really getting you hands dirty, err dirtier... then you already have to find whats let go between the source and ECU.

i wish i knew more about your problem and PFC's to offer better help, hope its not the worst case situ

Was talking to my old man about this one, he is a micro lecy from way back. he was saying that all cars have whats called "crowbar" protection, bascially there should be so many fail safes and stuff between the bat and your ECU that it shouldn't be damaged.

if your low on cash is prolly worth really getting you hands dirty, err dirtier... then you already have to find whats let go between the source and ECU.

i wish i knew more about your problem and PFC's to offer better help, hope its not the worst case situ

Hey mate thanks for the suggestion but I have tried the PFC on a mates R32 and it doesnt power up on his at all either so its definately the PFC.

And cheers for that link Cubes ill contact them soon.

Thats correct but unfortunately with the skylines the ecu most definitely does get damaged.

In the process it also blows the 75amp fuse as well as one of the fuses under the dash. I forget which one.

Luckly the ecu blows the main resistor and protects the bits within.

Also note that the thread op could smell an elec burning smell so it has obviously been toasted. :S

Hey mate thanks for the suggestion but I have tried the PFC on a mates R32 and it doesnt power up on his at all either so its definately the PFC.

yeah, thats a awesome way to check it :P, sucks dude was hoping it would be something more dispoable for ya.

so its abit of design floor then, thats pretty off Jap design.

Hey thanks alot mate... I dropped the PFC off yesterday to Automotive Service Solutions who specialise in fixing ECU's, they said they would give me a call over the next few days to say weather it can be fixed or not so ill keep everyone updated once I find out.

  • 2 weeks later...

Alright guys I have an update,

I got the PFC back from the repair shop today, put it in the car it turns on the fuel pump primes the hand controller comes on etc, but the car still just cranks for eternity and will not start, ive checked all the fuses 1000 times and their all fine. Anyone got any more suggestions before I burn this fu**ing thing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...