Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've recently modified a Navara speedo sender for use in the R33 RB25DET gearbox.

Thanks to the rb25 gearbox in to a Ceffy rb25det g/box thread for the part numbers and description on what has to be done.

Unfortunately you are stuck with a speedo that reads slightly incorrect due to the different R32 and R33 diff ratio's.

Nissan no longer produce a known suitable 21 tooth speedo cog. If you know of one let us all know!

Also note the R33 Series 1 and Series 2 gearbox's both use the Push Style clutch.

You will need Adobe PDF Reader to view the tutorial - it can be obtained here --> http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html

The guide contains pictures so that you know what to expect when you get stuck in to it. :thumbsup:

Modifying_the_Navara_Speedo_Sender_for_the_R33_Gearbox.pdf

excellent write up mate, Ive done this and i'd like to add that the quickest, most painless/stress free method of removing the 17 cog gear from the navara drive is with an oxy torch, I used a torch with a low heat setting and simply melted the plastic gear off (dont breathe the fumes in) and it took no less then 30 seconds and i was left with a clean shaft (joke if you will lol)

Also you havent mentioned how you held the 33 cog onto the navara shaft, I too ground a half moon shap onto the shaft and decided to drill a hole at the base of the drive, right through the shaft using a small 3mm drill bit and out the other side, then pressed a roll pin through it, much like the stock one that holds the shaft into the housing, thit ensures that the shaft is going no where!

other then that its all spot on!

Edited by Simon-R32
  • 2 weeks later...

No probs Ash.

Simon..

I used a dremel thin cutting disk to cut a small groove in to the end of the senders shaft, pressed the cog on and then fitted a circlip.

All though without the circlip or method you have done I highly doubt the cog will work its way off the shaft as its a very tight fit. But you never know. :yucky:

  • 2 months later...

hi,

iv recently converted my R33 skyline from auto to manual using R32 gtst gearbox and now my speedo dosnt work as u know the R32 uses a mechanical cable and the R33 uses electrical cable so the cable i have goes into the gearbox with no problem but i can hook it n the speedo cluster coz the cluster uses an electrical plug. is there any way i can chnage the R32 gearbox from mechanical to electrical?

thanks

Hey i just had my r33 GTS (non_turbo) skyline converted to an rb25det series 2 turbo engine with the r33 turbo gear box and ECU to match, basically making a r33 gts-t. I have a problem with my speedo and that is, that it is on approximately 1/2 (so when i am actaully doing 60km/h my speedo reads at 30km/h) Any ideas on what this could be? i have talked to a few people (check my thread in the N/A section) but this has not been answered properly). Hame

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...