Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Any one used this stuff yet?

Hey guys - this pigment comes with instructions and they also have instructions on Paint with Pearls site. We have painted numerous jobs and its good stuff for the price - just buy a GOOD quality clear - mix 1 pkt 1 ltr of clear . Don t forget your base coat and Metal flake if you want it . A GTR would take aboput 4 ltrs of paint once pigmented - so thats a few litres of primer - 2 litres of say silver metalic base coat then about 3 of pigmented clear. In between coates block it back then a final clear coat .

well i was look at the web site for that paint and where are these guys actual located...??

USA -Denvar Colarado - Pigment is cheap - Postage about $25 -here in a week - Mats good to deal with.Pay Pal

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
anyone know of similar sites located in aus??

nope - you could try a local painter - but its bound to be more expensive

heres the apple red flake from paint with pearl mixed in clear Powdercoat - definately need to clear over it and block if used in paint - where as the powdercoat is thicker and more self leveling.

IMG_0138small.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Here are a few pics that my friend took the other night of my to be drag GTR32 straight out of the booth - got lots to do yet. Looks a lttle funny being so

high off the ground as she has no running gear in her - will soon though!

Any way this is about painting your ride - will post up some pics in the natuarl sunlight as it will show the paint with pearl metal flakes better, there is one close up pic but dose not do it justice under fluorescent light. Enjoy.

I don't realy like busy paint jobs but that one looks very effective and not to full on .I admire the painters effort for sure and once finshed I bet it will look a millon dollars on the track

thanks i dont either for streeters- strip -why not i say, looks totally differant in sunlight.

  • 3 weeks later...

Im getting a blue paintjob soon, buying all the paint myself and prepping it then taking it to get sprayed.. Tried to look on the site just a bit unclear, how many packets would i need? about 4-5 since exXu1 said "A GTR would take aboput 4 ltrs of paint once pigmented", But what does it mean pigmented? Im talking from scratch.. Which packet would i get? Im looking for a GTR blue like bayside blue but with that pearl look..

Thanks

  • 2 weeks later...
Im getting a blue paintjob soon, buying all the paint myself and prepping it then taking it to get sprayed.. Tried to look on the site just a bit unclear, how many packets would i need? about 4-5 since exXu1 said "A GTR would take aboput 4 ltrs of paint once pigmented", But what does it mean pigmented? Im talking from scratch.. Which packet would i get? Im looking for a GTR blue like bayside blue but with that pearl look..

Thanks

The pigment is the small packet you buy from paint with Pearls- the pigment goes in your clear- you use clear only. When your pigment goes in the clear it becomes the paint colour you want. You then apply how many coates you want to achieve the look you like.

The pimented clears go over a base coat- say clear with a silver base or metalic even - contact Mat at P w Pearls and he will explain or i am sure ther are instructions on the site.

  • 1 month later...
  • 7 months later...

http://www.paintwithpearl.com/

basically like most pearls, it is a dry flake that is mixed with a base clear. this is then sprayed over the base colour of your choice. just like exXU1 said

the difference in teh styles is explained, but in a basic form, it is a differing of the size of the metallic pieces to change the effect the paint gives. my pics above are the flake, so large pieces are easily identified, where as a shimmer pearl is small pieces so it comes out as a colour change rather than flakey

wow this stuff is awsome, only one problem, there are way too many options!

how do i know what to go with to get the dezired affect?

some of the pictures look nothing like what you would expect from the description!

cheers

Gezza

  • 1 month later...

let me get my head round this, its been a long day

say for example my car is already silver....

I can buy say the blue satin ghost pearl flakes, mix with clear coat, and get my nearest panel shop to spray it and itll look sweet? the silver will have a pearlescent blue tinge in the light?

bout how much would the spray cost at the shop?

you still need to scuff the current paint back, then run the clear and additive, then another plain clear ontop again, then wet sanding and buffing if required.

best to go to your local painter and ask, Darwin prices might be different to other areas.

  • 1 month later...

looking at doing my car in the next month just started prepping it. although have slight prob with wat to do with the sunroof.( bit rusted out thinkin i will just get perspex and silicone it in or something. any opinions welcome. any way thinkin black pearl pigment with the black 00.4 flake sshould look sweet when im done anyone got any pics of cars they have done will post mine when completed.

Hi guys, For anyone wanting to paint they're car's them self. if you want a more in depth look you should consider adding the pearl powder/rainbow flake in binder then clear over the top. Be careful with the flakes too, Cause if you put it in with the clear it will leave the surface of the paint feeling like sand paper. make sure you use the right grade of paper when preping for colour. i recommend 800 grit for pearls and mettalics. and if your paint is in good condition ie not flaking or faded you wont have to prime it.

Hi guys, For anyone wanting to paint they're car's them self. if you want a more in depth look you should consider adding the pearl powder/rainbow flake in binder then clear over the top. Be careful with the flakes too, Cause if you put it in with the clear it will leave the surface of the paint feeling like sand paper. make sure you use the right grade of paper when preping for colour. i recommend 800 grit for pearls and mettalics. and if your paint is in good condition ie not flaking or faded you wont have to prime it.

If you realy are not sure and have limited experience - just search the correct way to apply or send Mat at paint with pearls an email, i am sure he will help, post the info here for all. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...