Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

just posting some pics and stats about where my car is at

180sx with an RB20 conversion

ajsxenginebaykb8.th.jpg

^^^^ this is her before. CA18, Apexi Power FC, manual conversion, GT3037r, Tial 48?mm external wastegate, 700cc SARD injectors, custom manifold, FMIC, 040 in tank, half inch fuel feed, pres. reg, custom 3" down pipe and front pipe in one into a 2.5" exhaust straight through, front strut brace, oil catch can, Exedy heavy duty cusion brass button clutch, screamer pipe :( my first ever car project.

bluenegineoutjg4.th.jpg

^^^^ this is her with the CA out getting prepped to have the RB dropped in.

cleanrb20yf0.th.jpg

^^^^ RB20 sitting at Dannys on his floor, waiting to be put in. Looks clean. Has done 5X,XXXKMs

manifoldturborb20pu9.th.jpg

^^^^ GT3037r sitting atop a Hybrid custom exhaust manifold :D and sporting the sweet ass Tial 48?mm external wastegate

postisderb20nj6.th.jpg

^^^^ RB sitting in the engine bay :D with the GT3037r. fits perfectly. i'm so stoked

avatar1rb20ox1.th.jpg

^^^^ ...Trying to be creative, camera phones.

For the moment it'll remain stock, cept for the turbo (going to run low boost) and i'll need 3" cat back piping - got 2.5" atm, get enough cash for a computer. Then the custom inlet plenum will go on (thanks Mick!), and hopefully a set of 700cc or 800cc injectors - to set the long term level. Then a tune, and possibly some larger cams :D also getting a VL radiator put in now.

Going to spray it, either myself or get a pro, Mat red. (any thoughts on the colour? the rims have a white insert. posted a pic just below) work meisters on hold, 17", should hold nicely, depending on the rubber i've got i guess

meister17os3.th.jpg

^^^^ Work Meister SP1 2P 17" 225s front 235s rear i think, not to informed on tyre/wheel specs :mellow:

some window tint and we're laughing haha

aj180sx2vg7.th.jpg

^^^^ here's a pic of my car btw. Anyone good at photoshop? Mat red with the Work Meister wheels???

hope to have it all done around the new year, bit after maybe :) hopefully at least sprayed and slammed before autosalon

cheers. i'll post more up when she's out and ripping! wednesday at the latest i'd say :D

Edited by RB- ajsx
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186248-second-begining/
Share on other sites

Awsome dude. Just a question and not intended to insult, but why a RB20 over a SR20 or RB25? I guess i say this because of the SR having more torque and less weight due to 4 cylinders and same displacement and the RB25 speaks for itself but is the same engine with more of everything? But its looking good dude and im sure it will still haul arse.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186248-second-begining/#findComment-3369945
Share on other sites

Awsome dude. Just a question and not intended to insult, but why a RB20 over a SR20 or RB25? I guess i say this because of the SR having more torque and less weight due to 4 cylinders and same displacement and the RB25 speaks for itself but is the same engine with more of everything? But its looking good dude and im sure it will still haul arse.

RB20's are a good motor. they are cheap and fairly easy to get your hands on. same for parts too. they are strong enough to handle a good amount of power and i reckon they have wicked sounding exhaust note....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186248-second-begining/#findComment-3370193
Share on other sites

haha yeah datto, exactically what frink said :domokun:

personally i've always seen the rb20 as an underrated motor. it has a lot of potential. from my experiences the SR has been less torquey. but anyway, i see it has the potential to gain higher power than an SR, with fewer mods and cheaper budget, also one in good nick and set up well sounds evil!! haha

in the end all i'm after is a clean setup. both inside and out.

Oh and by the way, if you need tyres... I can help :D

might take you up on that two 235 17" street tyres? price??

went and dropped off the new thermostat today. should be on the road no later than thursday i'd say

...anyone keen for a cruise friday?? :P

Edited by RB- ajsx
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186248-second-begining/#findComment-3370356
Share on other sites

Yeh cool. I guess they are easier to get power out of. I was just thinking that since RB25s are going relatively cheap nowadays and parts are relatively similar to RB20s in price and since you are doing the RB conversion anyways... But like i said dude, no offence intended and i reckon it will be sweet as anyways.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186248-second-begining/#findComment-3370875
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

got her back and got her running as sweetly as i could without getting it tuned. will be soon though.

has a few bugs though, think the gearbox might be on it's way out. getting that checked out next week. minor exhaust leak, and a surge problem when hitting full boost but obviously i'm not doing that much till it's tuned and all set.

apart from that it's fun as f*** to drive!!!

;)torquey and sideways :thumbsup:

it's just as i'd planned and hoped it would be haha!

the gearbox is a bit noisey, very noisey actually. sounds like something is loose, but.. yeah haha. also hard to get into reverse and sometimes first. anyone else with an rb20 box experienced anything similar? maybe the clutch needs to be bled again??

i'll post pics up soon, and maybe a little vid on youtube or something!

:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186248-second-begining/#findComment-3409346
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...