Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Last week my alarm decided to crack the sads with me. What happened was this.

With the Turbo Timer still counting down I arrived at work, closed the doors, got something out of the boot, closed it. Walked away from the car and went to arm it. The locking alert sound went but then it was followed by a second chirp. I went back to the car to see what was up. Turns out that I didnt close the drivers door properly, it was slightly ajar.

Problem is ever since, I cant lock and arm the car with the remote or have the motion sensor activate. The auto imobiliser still comes on after 30 seconds of shut down.

I can:

*Press the button on the remote, the light works

*lock the car with the original factory key (central locking)

*Disarm the car with the 4-digit override pin and start it

However I cannot:

*use the M80 remote to lock / unlock the doors

*use the M80 remote to arm the motion sensor

*use the M80 to disarm the motion sensor and imobiliser

Any ideas? It sure sucks atm having to do the 4-digit override with the alarm beeping every time I need to go somewhere. I dont feel comfortable knowing the motion sensor isnt working when I leave my car unlocked either. :domokun:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186429-mongoose-m80-problem/
Share on other sites

I have the same alarm.... although when that happens.. I just unlock it with the remote.... so unarmed... shut the door properly and rearm!

Sometimes I have buggered it up/confused it or something - so basically I had to unarm...shut the car down... turn the key to reds and turn off to reset the TT etc... and then lock again..

When you go to arm the car now... does it sound any warning signals such as a door is still open etc??? Possibly one of the sensors that determines that something is open are broken??? What happens if you shut the TT down straight away and try to arm? Does the alarm siren go off?? It should if it is still reading that a door is open and it isn't in the delayed TT mode

When you go to arm the car now... does it sound any warning signals such as a door is still open etc??? Possibly one of the sensors that determines that something is open are broken??? What happens if you shut the TT down straight away and try to arm? Does the alarm siren go off?? It should if it is still reading that a door is open and it isn't in the delayed TT mode

When I try to arm the car, it doesnt make any sound or signal.......doesnt matter if I try leave it running or off.

so have you lost the remote control side of it or does taht still work?

if so I'll send you the book (email pls) and you can rekey both remotes.

Cheers for the book mate, I managed to get the alarm into learning mode and tried to rekey the remote but still nothing.

Silly question but the batteries tend to die instantly in my M80... have you tried replacing them? Even though there will still be the LED flashing on the remote, there isn't enough power to transmit the signal....

All your problems you described also happen when the remote batteries need replacing, hence why I always have a spare battery on me!

Even though there will still be the LED flashing on the remote, there isn't enough power to transmit the signal....

Bingo! How easy is that.

I trusted the remote because the LED still flashed, next time I shouldnt assume :( . Spare remote works fine.

Cheers msnismo :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The incentives are mostly the same, yes. Ethanol is cheap compared to the cost of doing 98-100 RON with crude oil alone. 87 to 93-94 AKI all with E10. In 2020 Canada mandated E10 as a part of their "renewable fuel standard" and is supposedly going to go to E15 in 2030. In California where there are only 8 refineries with two threatening to shut down next year it's been over 20 years now of E10 and 91 AKI maximum because there's just not enough refinery capacity or crude oil supply relative to the demand for premium unleaded fuel. And CARB's low carbon fuel standard means functionally none of the diesel available at the pump is made from crude oil anymore. It's almost all entirely 20% biodiesel blended with 80% renewable diesel (hydrotreated vegetable oil) now. The number of gasoline vehicles that support E15 or higher ethanol concentrations is surprisingly low, I can't imagine it being wise to play tricks like this without flex fuel sensors in most of the fleet.
    • It's almost certainly the same as the one next to it. Have a fish around amongst these hits https://www.google.com/search?q=surface+mount+transistor+m33&sca_esv=9cb49794e0b2005d&source=hp&ei=2vJ5aNjTB7Kw0PEPldnS8QM&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaHoA6qkfmF6XcygtrZ4Vu9f92NXF_RFd&ved=0ahUKEwjYqIPP7MWOAxUyGDQIHZWsND4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=surface+mount+transistor+m33&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhxzdXJmYWNlIG1vdW50IHRyYW5zaXN0b3IgbTMzMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUjKCFAAWABwAHgAkAEAmAHfAaAB3wGqAQMyLTG4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQGYAgGgAuYBmAMAkgcDMi0xoAfMBLIHAzItMbgH5gHCBwMyLTHIBwU&sclient=gws-wiz
    • South Australia, which is hardly as far behind as the rest pf Oz makes out, and who is also not a paragon of progressiveness (read that as over-legislation) in the area of vehicle standards, has this to say on the subject: Adjustable coil-over suspension Aftermarket adjustable coil-over suspension components are suspension units that incorporate an external thread on the main body and corresponding threaded spring saddle that allows the vehicle's suspension height to be varied. If fitting aftermarket or coil-over suspension components you must submit an Application to modify a light motor vehicle form and a report from a light vehicle engineering signatory (LVES).
    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
×
×
  • Create New...