Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I gonna get the JJR coils in mine when I get time..!

They did specify 10% more spark voltage, so it has to be worth a try, even if they live for 2-3 years.

I cant see any lightning show either, but we are sure its the coils breaking down. they do arc inside as well, so you may not see any external indications of problems.

I was running 22psi, but even on 14, it spits and f@rts now.

What ever happens inside them, it just gets worse as time goes on.

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ok so i guess my main worry here is, it does miss a bit, but really it isnt a consistent miss, it happens here and there but mainly pretty smooth, gutless but smooth. under load it breaks down a bit, but for the power loss there i would expect more missing. basically what im saying is the power loss doesnt feel like its coming from the miss (aka a ignition issue)

I finally think I fixed my problem :blink:

After redoing the entire ignition it was idling fine and ran better than ever up to 3k where it cut out. AFM was reading fine so the only thing left to swap over was the CAS. As soon as I put my mates CAS on it went up to limiter no problem. I opened mine up and there was a heap of fine red dust in there and the rear bearing was screwed, I cleaned the encoder and the optics and it seems to have fixed it.

The dodgy coilpacks, looser alternator belt, battery not holding it charge and fouled plugs didn't really help either. But she runs sweet as now :blink:

ahk well boostworx are going to check it out on tuesday. gave the car a rev today and f**k me u should have seen the black smoke coming out the back. we are thinking i might be something to do with the map now, not sure.

well i tested another cas today to no avail :)

tried the ignitor pack too but it seems the rb25 ones aren't compatible, so i still have to hunt one down.

Going to get a compression test done this week hopefully and see how it goes

just to let people know it ended up being a leak in the i/c hosing, which i kind of had my suspicions on, especially after i tightened up the clamps and it made a difference. the issue was the hosing was old and leaking so no matter how tight they were it was leaking. runs nicely now, still rough as guts idle (like its always had) but it doesnt stall anymore.

Grab some silicon and cover the base of the coil pack while trying to push some in between the bracket and the coil pack its self.

I found the best way to find which coil was arcing out was to remove the centre coil cover wait for night; take the car for a drive get it warm, park, leave the car running and then watch the lightening show. :w00t:

If you can't see anything give it quick blips of the throttle and watch down the sides of the coils.

All 6 of mine were arcing out. ;)

silicon is conductive mate. yea i didnt think so either but it is

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...