Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

to get clean even vents/slots you would need to have the material milled or water cut to be consistent.

alternatively you could drill holes then cut them out and spend alot of time manually filing the holes down to be even.

pretty sure you would need a bend on either side of the valley cover to make the bolting surface flush with the cam covers. check out your local hotrod shop (if there is one near you) they may have a louvre die that can press out some old shool vent louvres to let the hot air out.

hey i made one for my rb25 motor and it was pretty dam simple all i did was get a bit of 4mm aluminium but lighter stainless or whatever u want woould do , i just measured in side on the cam covers with a set of verniers and then just measured the lenght with a tape and then marked out the holes by measurement for the bolts , got that to fit , and then just put it in the drill press and drilled a coulple of holes , then stuck it in the mill and completed the slots in the mill , if u havent got acesses to a mill you could do it with a jig saw or angle grinder and then tiny it up with a file ill post some pics of mine if i can took me about 2 hrs to make it up then fair bit or polishing , i hate polishing! :P

hey i made one for my rb25 motor and it was pretty dam simple all i did was get a bit of 4mm aluminium but lighter stainless or whatever u want woould do , i just measured in side on the cam covers with a set of verniers and then just measured the lenght with a tape and then marked out the holes by measurement for the bolts , got that to fit , and then just put it in the drill press and drilled a coulple of holes , then stuck it in the mill and completed the slots in the mill , if u havent got acesses to a mill you could do it with a jig saw or angle grinder and then tiny it up with a file ill post some pics of mine if i can took me about 2 hrs to make it up then fair bit or polishing , i hate polishing! :(

hi mate could u pm me a pic, or post up a piccie.

also was urs just a fllat piece of steel, or did u put in the bends and humps that are on the stock cover?

hi mate could u pm me a pic, or post up a piccie.

also was urs just a fllat piece of steel, or did u put in the bends and humps that are on the stock cover?

hey i put 2 small bends in it so it would sit there better there only pretty little though , i used to work in a steel fab shop as i fitter and turner so was easy but i would say the whole job if u got a steel shop to supply, cut it and put the folds would only cost bout 50-60 bucks , thats excluding the slots they would cost a fair bit to get done

post-41765-1191319133_thumb.jpg

hey guys, seen these around by tomei and stuff.

has anyone made a slotted/vented cover.

and if so do u have any pics

and how did u do it?

heres an e.g. it doesnt have to be this crazy

aluminumwirecover_small.jpg

just cut the centre out and put mesh in it heres some that ive done

ca18det

post-20188-1191575215_thumb.jpg

rb20det

post-20188-1191575396_thumb.jpg

rb26dett

post-20188-1191575578_thumb.jpg

i went with the slots. i just took an angle grinder to it.

but i did make 2, because the grinder cant make perfect cuts.

so yea, i have a mesh one aswell, ....just incase.

but i havent noticed any temp changes.

if the engine is hot=the hot air gets into the coilies.???

but it looks good

i went with the slots. i just took an angle grinder to it.

but i did make 2, because the grinder cant make perfect cuts.

so yea, i have a mesh one aswell, ....just incase.

but i havent noticed any temp changes.

if the engine is hot=the hot air gets into the coilies.???

but it looks good

how have you tried to monitor the temp changes?

the idea once you are moving is that the moving air within the low pressure area under the bonnet should move the air around and provide some cooling to the coil packs.

that mesh idea would it be possible/safe to glue the mesh on?? as i dont have access to a welder

if you use something that is heat resistant

maybe something like JB Weld would work

if you use something that is heat resistant

maybe something like JB Weld would work

You could use a 2 part system called devcon , its like the metal version of fibreglass or the alike , you would prob have to rough up the metal a bit to get it to stick though , not sure how dear it is though, or just drill for small holes in each corner and put some little stainless steel bolts though it that would look pretty neat

Or mabey rivet the mesh on, with a washer on the other side of the mesh to help it hold - evenly spaced it might come up ok

copy that dave, i used rivvets. so u still see some rivets sticking out top, but looks good.

and craved, that does make sense, atleast the air is circulated. i will get some temps, after some runs with stock cover, and vented cover

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...