Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

to get clean even vents/slots you would need to have the material milled or water cut to be consistent.

alternatively you could drill holes then cut them out and spend alot of time manually filing the holes down to be even.

pretty sure you would need a bend on either side of the valley cover to make the bolting surface flush with the cam covers. check out your local hotrod shop (if there is one near you) they may have a louvre die that can press out some old shool vent louvres to let the hot air out.

hey i made one for my rb25 motor and it was pretty dam simple all i did was get a bit of 4mm aluminium but lighter stainless or whatever u want woould do , i just measured in side on the cam covers with a set of verniers and then just measured the lenght with a tape and then marked out the holes by measurement for the bolts , got that to fit , and then just put it in the drill press and drilled a coulple of holes , then stuck it in the mill and completed the slots in the mill , if u havent got acesses to a mill you could do it with a jig saw or angle grinder and then tiny it up with a file ill post some pics of mine if i can took me about 2 hrs to make it up then fair bit or polishing , i hate polishing! :P

hey i made one for my rb25 motor and it was pretty dam simple all i did was get a bit of 4mm aluminium but lighter stainless or whatever u want woould do , i just measured in side on the cam covers with a set of verniers and then just measured the lenght with a tape and then marked out the holes by measurement for the bolts , got that to fit , and then just put it in the drill press and drilled a coulple of holes , then stuck it in the mill and completed the slots in the mill , if u havent got acesses to a mill you could do it with a jig saw or angle grinder and then tiny it up with a file ill post some pics of mine if i can took me about 2 hrs to make it up then fair bit or polishing , i hate polishing! :(

hi mate could u pm me a pic, or post up a piccie.

also was urs just a fllat piece of steel, or did u put in the bends and humps that are on the stock cover?

hi mate could u pm me a pic, or post up a piccie.

also was urs just a fllat piece of steel, or did u put in the bends and humps that are on the stock cover?

hey i put 2 small bends in it so it would sit there better there only pretty little though , i used to work in a steel fab shop as i fitter and turner so was easy but i would say the whole job if u got a steel shop to supply, cut it and put the folds would only cost bout 50-60 bucks , thats excluding the slots they would cost a fair bit to get done

post-41765-1191319133_thumb.jpg

hey guys, seen these around by tomei and stuff.

has anyone made a slotted/vented cover.

and if so do u have any pics

and how did u do it?

heres an e.g. it doesnt have to be this crazy

aluminumwirecover_small.jpg

just cut the centre out and put mesh in it heres some that ive done

ca18det

post-20188-1191575215_thumb.jpg

rb20det

post-20188-1191575396_thumb.jpg

rb26dett

post-20188-1191575578_thumb.jpg

i went with the slots. i just took an angle grinder to it.

but i did make 2, because the grinder cant make perfect cuts.

so yea, i have a mesh one aswell, ....just incase.

but i havent noticed any temp changes.

if the engine is hot=the hot air gets into the coilies.???

but it looks good

i went with the slots. i just took an angle grinder to it.

but i did make 2, because the grinder cant make perfect cuts.

so yea, i have a mesh one aswell, ....just incase.

but i havent noticed any temp changes.

if the engine is hot=the hot air gets into the coilies.???

but it looks good

how have you tried to monitor the temp changes?

the idea once you are moving is that the moving air within the low pressure area under the bonnet should move the air around and provide some cooling to the coil packs.

that mesh idea would it be possible/safe to glue the mesh on?? as i dont have access to a welder

if you use something that is heat resistant

maybe something like JB Weld would work

if you use something that is heat resistant

maybe something like JB Weld would work

You could use a 2 part system called devcon , its like the metal version of fibreglass or the alike , you would prob have to rough up the metal a bit to get it to stick though , not sure how dear it is though, or just drill for small holes in each corner and put some little stainless steel bolts though it that would look pretty neat

Or mabey rivet the mesh on, with a washer on the other side of the mesh to help it hold - evenly spaced it might come up ok

copy that dave, i used rivvets. so u still see some rivets sticking out top, but looks good.

and craved, that does make sense, atleast the air is circulated. i will get some temps, after some runs with stock cover, and vented cover

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah that is not actually a lot. Just painting my GTR frontend and the little bits to make sideskirts/nismo flare pieces work correctly/fit on the sedan/mount up correctly came to about $7000. Is it a lot? Sure. None of this is economical. Economy would be shelling the car and buying a 2010 Corolla to commute in. The perspective of all of this is different.
    • I have the re003s’ on my 06 XT Forester Turbo and I highly rate them for street wet and dry
    • I don't see any issues here. I've been saying all along this is a big job, the price reflects that.  When the car comes back perfect I'm sure it will feel like money well spent. 
    • Remember, take original quote. Double it. Then add a bit more. It's how any project goes.
    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
×
×
  • Create New...