Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, i did the experiment this arvo.

after a hard run of 30 mins, whith a 2hr break in between, to cool the engine down again for accurate results: i found a temperature difference of:

stock cover= 89C

vented=72.5 C

these figures aren't exact, but there was a BIG difference in temps

*note thermometer was measuring for 5min

used an aircraft thermometer gauge with a probe

yea, i only took the 2 readings, and i possibly had the temp gauge sitting on the steel, so it is inaccurate - meh- we all get the idea.

for the guy who is making one NOOOOO dont cut into the stock plastic cover.

generally measure out the shape onto a piece of allie, i cant remember how thick.

then if its too big=good, trim some off, better too much than too little. then for the screw holes, basically trace the holes from the stock one onto the new one. u shouldnt have to bend the steel, just take enough off the sides, so it sits down flush in the little groove.

and u should be sweet, oh and if for some reason, the car is a bit jerky when u drive, dont worry this goes away in 5min.

Edited by r33cruiser
hey attemptin that mesh idea now, iv got the spark plug cover off now, should i just cut into the cover witha grinder?

yes just drill a hole in all 4 corners and use a angle grinder

as for holdin the mesh in i just use stickerflex to hold it in place

u told me too late hahah i cut into the plastic cover put mesh on and its all back on and looks real nice

ill take pics tomoro!!!

post up some pics mate. i want to see if u have butchered a perfectly good cover

lol @ stickerflex 2 posts up. ppl call that shit the weirdest names.

i heard, (but i dont know, and so i'm asking) that if you remove the coil cover, or i guess vent it, there is a risk of dirt, dust, and crap getting into the timing belt enclosure thru the vents on the back of it, that face into the coil valley.

is this possibly a problem?

lol @ stickerflex 2 posts up. ppl call that shit the weirdest names.

i heard, (but i dont know, and so i'm asking) that if you remove the coil cover, or i guess vent it, there is a risk of dirt, dust, and crap getting into the timing belt enclosure thru the vents on the back of it, that face into the coil valley.

is this possibly a problem?

i thought that too. but since ive had it on, i have driven through a few downpours, and have been through a bit of dirt, and no problem

i wouldnt use sikaflex as it gets soft when heated, thats why heat guns are used to help remove rear lights, undo headlight assemblies etc

jb weld would be the best stuff, but you can only get it off ebay in AUS - there is from memory some guys down in melbourne that sell it

selleys 401 silicone is industrial grade high temp stuff. ive never tried it for this purpose, but it seems to stick really well.

ive used it to seal my coilpacks against arcing, and it hasnt melted in any way. the pack says its recommended for sealing glass to oven doors, among other things. so that gives you some indication of its heat resistance. about $10 a tube at bunnings.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...