Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi,

I got the rb25det i've been wanting for so long and put into my car, But I am having some problems boosting above .6

I have a walbro pump and sard regulator stock injectors and everything is stock the turbo is stock too

My electronic boost controller is the Greddy E01, I've tried all sorts of settings but the boost wont go higher then 0.6 before it starts going burrrrrr and very hesistant boost cut or some thing like that. it's fast until it gets really close to the 0.6!

I have set the setting to about 0.55 and sometimes i get micro hesistations! at .55 but not many as i keep rolling the setting lower until it is smoother! but the largest problem is the boost! I wanna try 0.8 or even 1 bar but cannot go that high.

the engine was imported from japan and has very low km/s about 20-30,000 kms had the ports polished and all that! and put the new gasket so it sound great!

anyone can tell me stock engine is okay at 0.8-1bar? and what are your ideas?

thanks guys!

Shaun

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186980-wont-boost-more-than-6-bar/
Share on other sites

Agreed, shouldn't be stuffing around with Fuel Prerssure Regulators without a tuned ECU.

Not worth the trouble anyway, take it off and sell it.

Put the standard FPR back on and then play with your boost and see what happans....

Might clear it up

Edited by Birnie

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...