Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

im just in the process of upgrading to an ITS turbo and while i am at it im going to get a s/s custom made intake pipe made up,

the guy i was talking to said that we can just block of the piping that goes from a nipple of the rocker covers to the intake pipe,

just wondering what that will do, he says its not really needed but i just wanna make sure

the pipe runs from the circled nipple thingy to the intake pipe just before the turbo

sam

Picture0071.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187304-blocking-off-pipe-on-rocker-cover/
Share on other sites

don't block it. your dipstick will shoot out of its hole and spray oil everywhere. its your oil breather and needs to be vented, either back into the intake, an oil catch can, or just with a filter attachment.

thats what i was just thinking

just like one of those lil mini pod looking things

yes you can, but that just yells out to police to defect you, as that is an EPA issue to vent it to atmosphere (yes same with catch cans venting to the atmosphere - only they are usually less obvious)

Dont run the filters directly on the breathers!!! I did that and at the drag strip it pumped oil out of it all over the exhaust manifold, turbo etc (remember RBs fill the rocker covers up with oil with sustained high revs)

Im damn lucky I didnt have a fire on my hands

Guys,

you really need to understand what is happening with engine breathing before even considering messing with the breather lines. So many people still get it wrong and it's not hard.

If you install a vented catch can and don't block the pcv valve off as well you introduce a vacuum leak and the car will run like shit at idle and when in vacuum as the pcv valve is open and sucking air straight into the plenum via the can. If you block where you have shown then the car will be fine at idle and in vacuum as the pcv valve still works, but get into boost and you pressurize the sump and blow the dip stick out and coat the engine bay with oil.

What wazR32 has stated is the only legal (and non smelly) way to do it, that won't result in a pressurized sump.

And a healthy rb25 will not pump it's oil out at sustained high revs. I have taken my catch can off as it was still dry after 2 track days, i have run no catch can (breather plugged straight back into the intake as per factory) at the last 2 track days with no issues. my intake pipe is still clean. Different story with built engine and N1 pump.

  • 2 weeks later...
OK my hose is missing too.

I liked the idea of the filter but you guys say its a defect.

Where exactly does the hose plumb into? The intake? Before/After the turbo?

the vertical pipe loops over to a metal pipe that runs to the turbo inlet pipe just before the turbo

so

intake? = yes

Before/after the turbo = before

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...