Jump to content
SAU Community

Tell Tail Signs That Your Turbo Gonna Blow

PyroIndustries

By PyroIndustries,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

PyroIndustries Contributor

PyroIndustries

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

shes all stock

its loudest on idle i think

i think the best was to describe it would be a buzzing sound

one of my mates reckons that it might be the zorst flange

Edited by PyroIndustries
Jdfnq Proficient

Jdfnq

Posted
Posted
I think that maybe my turbo is on its last legs

i have notice a kinda ticking sound coming from my turbo

could it be something else or am i on trouble?

Hey Dave

Pop over and I'll have a quick look for you....

Sounds like a gasket :D

  • 1 month later...
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

When replacing the manifold/turbo gaskets, replace all the studs aswell.

Your mad not too, and your likely to break 3-4 when removing the manifold anyhow.

So replace them all now and be done with it

sly32 Proficient

sly32

Posted
Posted

when my turbo went, it sounded like a supercharger, annoying wine sound drove me crazy, then i just boosted it real hard and back off soon as i backed off it went to the point of sound like metal was scrapping on metal not a good sound, i still had boost pressure though, if you think its going take off you intake pipe to turbo and feel the shaft and spin it and see if it makes noise then if not then its normally fine, but in your case, defently gasket,

JV

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • Duncan
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...