Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey fellows,

I was wondering if any1 can help me change my boring yellow lights to HID..and does R32 have H2 ?? coz i been looking on ebay for HID kit and most of them are H1/H4 etc..so if you had done HID conversion on ur R32 or any information you can chuck at me i'll appriciate it..

many thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187445-any1-got-hid-for-their-r32/
Share on other sites

Hi mate, I've an HID kit installed on my projector head lights and they're a good improvement on vision, but I don't recommend them. They produce a lot of glare and hot spots.

R32's have H3C and H1 headlights. Never heard of them having H2's.

yeah, depends how DIY you are, but Ronin's DIY thread is killer if you want REAL projectors in there.

other parts can be sourced from hidplanet.com or something like that. Bosch/Hella are probably the base lamps for most the OEM projectors

If you're planning on doing a retrofit on an r32 and not sure if you want to attempt it after reading ronin's thread, I think skybarge will be posting up a tutorial soon. He's doing a bi-xenon conversion. Can't wait till he gets it up.

yeah i'm doing my retrofit slowly at the moment :rolleyes:

just spend $4k on a holiday over New Years for me and the gf, so yeah :S it'll be January before I get the testing done on them :(

I'll get some more pics up in the next couple of weeks, just waiting for a new grinder blade and some plexiglass for the lenses/shrouds, then the cutting will begin :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
    • the top black section is bonded to the silver section with some form of rubber. I assume to isolated NVH from the box
×
×
  • Create New...