Jump to content
SAU Community

getting into fuel tank

predator

By predator,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

I'm just trying to get into my fuel tank to see how difficult it is to install a Bosch 910 pump.

Got all the access panel off, removed the hoses and electronic plugs. Now there is a kinda a "jar" type thing. Its a bit of a bastard to turn around. Is that what i have to do? Or do i use a screwdriver or something to prise it off...like pop it off i guess??

I just don't want to be sitting there fro like an hour trying to turn it around when it has to be popped off.

Anybody who has opened it up should know what i am talking about i hope!

answer ASAP would be appreciated as i'm kinda doing it now

thanx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18776-getting-into-fuel-tank/
Share on other sites
predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
  • Author
Posted

lol.. nobody was interested even though its a perfectly good pump and i was trying to sell it for like a month.

So thought well its just going to waste, may as well give it a go replacing my stock pump and see whether that helps fix my pinging problem (a possible cause?)

Didn't get anywhere today 'cause i had to do stuff so will have to try again tomorrow.

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

That plastic "lid" thing either needs a special tool to get off (some sort of spanner that fits), or you can punch it off with a screwdriver like you thought. I did the screwdriver method when attempting to swap my pump, and slightly damaged the lid. It was also an absolute BITCH to get back on, being plastic it kept popping off before I could get the thread started.

After I got the lid off I couldn't see how the fuel pump could be removed easily. I decided to quit while I was behind and just put the whole lot back together again. It was a learning experience :)

Even though I've since found out how the fuel pump comes out (it's on the end of a long bracket) I'm going to get the workshop to do it. It took me around 2 or 3 hours to get the lid on and off, and even though I'm sure it wouldn't take me that long to do next time, my workshop is only going to charge me $80 to do it.

I'll gladly pay that much to save some strain on my hands and my back.

Edit: Sorry, misread what you were going to do with the screwdriver. DON'T use it to lever the lid off, use a hammer on the screwdriver and punch the lid anti-clockwise on the thread. It takes farkin' ages because it's a long thread and it's even tougher to get back on. I presume most workshops have the correct tool and can do it in 30 seconds.

macka Veteran

macka

Posted
Posted

The whole guts will come out, just unclip the two plugs from the top lid...yes u were right about them...

Then stick your arm in......hopefully less than quarter of a tank.....grab the pump and wiggle it ....

just a little bit.... "old school :P"

It will come loose and the whole lot will come out and you will see what u were wondering about for so long.....

:)

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
  • Author
Posted

[qupte]Edit: Sorry, misread what you were going to do with the screwdriver. DON'T use it to lever the lid off, use a hammer on the screwdriver and punch the lid anti-clockwise on the thread. It takes farkin' ages because it's a long thread and it's even tougher to get back on. I presume most workshops have the correct tool and can do it in 30 seconds.

Yer, that is what i was doing, jsut wondering whether it was actually going anywhere. It will come off eventually.. Brute force is always fun.

It's a very easy process and the pump install took me an hour.

Cheers, that is what i want to hear :)

Thanks - think i have enough knowledge, will let u guys know how it goes.

mmmm... petrol fumes :):D

btw: anybody attempting this - remove the battery for safety before playing with your fuel tank.

  • 8 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...