Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

Just a quick quest' not sure if it should be in this thread?,

Where do you get your wheel bearings from, had one colapse on me today front drivers (well thats what it sounds like) , might aswell replace both, do you get em from autobarn? or a bearing shop?, do they even have these on the shelf here?, they should as most cars use the same type and size.

Thnx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188168-wheel-bearings/
Share on other sites

Hey All,

Just a quick quest' not sure if it should be in this thread?,

Where do you get your wheel bearings from, had one colapse on me today front drivers (well thats what it sounds like) , might aswell replace both, do you get em from autobarn? or a bearing shop?, do they even have these on the shelf here?, they should as most cars use the same type and size.

Thnx

Two of my wheel bearings started to squeal about 3 weeks ago(front left and rear right)

Bought a whole set off a guy here on the forums.He works for CBC bearings.The bearings i received are top quality.

PM me for info.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188168-wheel-bearings/#findComment-3394628
Share on other sites

cbc bearings? never heard of it. Mwade in which country? anddd howww much?

The bearings i received are made in Japan.CBC supply all the manufactures bearing type products.They also sell Gates products,the timing belt which is in my car now was also from CBC.

I got a mates rate price for the bearings which came to $220 from memory.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188168-wheel-bearings/#findComment-3395236
Share on other sites

I got a mates rate price for the bearings which came to $220 from memory.

Sounds like a good price, as I have seen em for $120 ea on the front, waitin back for some more quotes.

Did you use an bearing puller for the back ones?, or the old grind and hax trix?.

Edited by Yme33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188168-wheel-bearings/#findComment-3395396
Share on other sites

Just a quick heads up, may not apply in this case but you never know over the net. A lot of times people with skylines think they have a stuffed wheel bearing it turns out to be something else (like warped rotors). If you've seen Skyline wheel bearings out of the car you will understand, they are well over engineered.

I've had stuffed wheel bearings in previous cars and I was positive that's what was wrong with my line but I was wrong.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188168-wheel-bearings/#findComment-3395867
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...