Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

It has come time to sell this car, I am selling it on behalf of a friend who has since moved to America. This car is VERY quick and is a real head turner. Below is a list of all the modifications that have been done to the car, if there are any questions please feel free to pm me or give me a call on the mobile number below.

PRICE: $17,900ono

Location: Morisset, NSW (about 50mins north of Hornsby (Sydney))

CONTACT DETAILS: PM or Mobile: 0403 363 143

1995 dec built r33 gtst, 98000kms,

ECU/Engine/Exhaust

350rwkws

APEXi power FC with H/C

Garrett T04Z 800HP twin ball bearing turbo.

Turbo smart 45mm waste gate with dump to atmosphere.

6 boost high flow exhaust manafold

Trust type-R BOV

Tomei 264 in/ex camshafts

Tomei 280L/H Fuel pump

NISMO 550cc injectors (This is what he was told when he purchased the car, but when the car was dyno'd the tunner said they were more likely 660cc)

NISMO Fuel regulator

NISMO Oil cap

Fujitsubo 3.1/2in exhaust with high flow cat

3 1/2in custom dump

Greddy Exhaust Adjustable Cam Gear.

Greddy Engine Oil Cooler

Greddy Oil Catch Can

Greddy Intake Plenum

Greddy Profec B boost controller

Port and polished RB25DET head

Q45 Throttle Boddy 90mm

Q45 AFM 90mm

Suction and cooling

APEXI power Intake

TRUST V-SPL Intercooler kit

Drivetrain

C's Quickshift kit

OS Giken Twin Plate Cllutch with lighten Flywheel

NISMO Oversixe slave clutch cylinder

Handling

Tomi Brake Master Cylinder Brace

FET Strut Tower Brace(f)

CUSCO Strut Tower Braces ®

DBA Drill and Slotted Roters (F&R)

Bilstein Strut and Whinelint Spring

Section HICAPS Lock Bar

Whiteline Handling Pack

Whiteline Urethene suspension bushes (F&R)

Whiteline anti-roll bars (F&R)

Interior

APEXI EL Mechanical Boost Gauge

APEXI RSV with DIY shift light

MOMO Steering Wheel

MOMO Gear Knob

Pioneer MP3 Head Unit with Pioneer Speakers/Spliters (F&R)

Exterior

R33 GT-R Front Bar with indicators

R33 GT-R style Rear Wing

R33 GT-R Style side skirt

3 Point immobiliser Alarm

The car will be sold with the STD R33 rims, not the 19's in the pics.

The photos can be found here: http://www.pbase.com/thedarkraver/r33_skyline

or as an attatchment to this post.

Will try and find the dyno sheet to scan in this week.

Whoever buys this car will not be disapointed!!!

Marc,

post-1205-1191790365_thumb.jpg

post-1205-1191790388_thumb.jpg

post-1205-1191790523_thumb.jpg

post-1205-1191790558_thumb.jpg

post-1205-1191838994_thumb.jpg

Edited by ThEdArKrAvEr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188309-1995-r33-350rwkw-monster/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Another Price Drop!!

Come on ppl this car needs to go!

It is a very neat example of a R33 and is mechanicly A1, not a cent needs to be spent on this car!

Forged Internals???????????

264 tomei cams, which by logic are procams which need to used with solid lifters... Have you changed the lifters or are they still hydraulic???

Edited by redevil

No the bottom end has not been touched still std internals. When it was tuned they only took it to 20psi as this is what they considered the limit for stock internals, with forged internals the supporting setup with the T04Z should be good for 400kws.. Before he left for america he was sourcing a rb30 bottom end and was going to take this route but things changed and now the car has to go.

still std hydralic lifiters as the 264's lift does not exced what is possible with the std lifters. The next cams up 270's had a higher lift and thus needed solid lifters.

Edited by ThEdArKrAvEr
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...