Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

by 75k i mean it was bought with 53k on the clock which i doubt is true (as in the importers etc wound it back like they do with most imports)

yes gearbox oil has been changed with i think it was vmx80 and nulon additive

  • 3 weeks later...

good luck man these things drive u crazy

still have to fix a couple more things like my f**king brakes oh how i hate them and also the grinding noise i get at about 2k on each gear (hopefully new clutch/machine flywheel will fix that)

  • 3 weeks later...
WOHOO, got 4 new tyres wheel balance and alignment and its gone

thank god.

even tho i bought the car with 4 new wheels they must not have balanced them (even tho there were weights on there?)

they must have not been balanced properly, where they stick on weights or hit ons?

if your steering wheel vibrates at bout 100kms, then your front wheels need balancing.

if its at slower speed its usuall a seperated tyre or buckled rim.

from your friendly neighbourhood tyre man.

  • 1 month later...

an update on my problem, my mechanic got the tailshaft balanced to see if that will resolve the problem.

They said it was slightly unbalanced and re-balanced it.

The vibration has mostly gone away, not as bad as before, but its still present at 100km/h+

My mechanic suspects its the tyres, will try swapping with another set of wheels to see if this fixes the problem.

However, if the vibration was slightly fixed with the tailshaft balance, doesnt that mean there is more of a chance of vibration in the drivetrain rather than the tyres causing the problem?

cheers

  • 1 month later...

Well decided to swap my rims with another set of r33 stock rims with new tyres.

Got all 4 wheels balanced too.

Vibration still there at 100km/h+

Next step is to have the clutch removed and rebalanced...hopefully this will finally solve the vibration ~_~

God, I hate hard to diagnose problems like this. I feel for you guys! I had terrible shaking for about 6 months, and threw a lot of money at changing out parts to try and solve it (due to inadequate 'wheel specialists' being unable to properly diagnose the problem).

Rekin, I see you've already done a lot of what I did (bushes/rack etc), and doubt your problem is related to mine, but for those with the shakes over 100kph, check this out:

Steering wheel shakes at speed

haha yeah ive spent so much time trying to fix this problem;

- Several wheel balances and alignments

- camber, castor, subframe, power steering bushes

- replaced whole steering rack

- More wheel balances and alignments

- balanced tailshaft

- Replaced tyres/rims

- Balanced them too

Only step left is to rebalance clutch/flywheel or get a replacement through warranty...

haha yeah ive spent so much time trying to fix this problem;

- Several wheel balances and alignments

- camber, castor, subframe, power steering bushes

- replaced whole steering rack

- More wheel balances and alignments

- balanced tailshaft

- Replaced tyres/rims

- Balanced them too

Only step left is to rebalance clutch/flywheel or get a replacement through warranty...

Did the grease monkey put the pins back in that hold the clutch central after it was machined or leave them out ? i have seen this before and it caused a vibration but it was car speed unrelated only vibrated when you hleb the reves up ,. your problem is realtive to wheel speed not car engine rpm ? if so check wheel bearing and all the other garbage,

my 2 cents

I've just noticed a bad vibration in my Stagea. I had an R33 GTR gearbox and R34 GTR clutch installed 6 months ago, and apart from a transfer case failure never had any real vibration. It's not related to revs, and comes on after 40km/h, and get gradually worse until about 80km/h then stays constant. from reading this thread it sounds like something has gone in the driveline, like a bearing or uni joint. does anyone have any experience with uni joint or bearing failures and what they should feel like?

yeah i went for a test and noticed that;

at 100km/h+

- Clutch pressed whole way in + selected gear (4/5) still has vibrations

- Neutral rolling at 100km/h still have vibrations.

Does that rule out it is the clutch/flywheel imbalance?

  • 3 weeks later...
haha yeah ive spent so much time trying to fix this problem;

- Several wheel balances and alignments

- camber, castor, subframe, power steering bushes

- replaced whole steering rack

- More wheel balances and alignments

- balanced tailshaft

- Replaced tyres/rims

- Balanced them too

Only step left is to rebalance clutch/flywheel or get a replacement through warranty...

I'm with godzilla67 my moneys on the dowell pins in the flywheel not being replaced,I spoke to Jim Berry at length about flywheels and clutches and he told me that he's seen some really stupid butchery done on them to get them out but laziness,time constraints and the wrong tools adds up to some mechanics or flywheel grinders just grinding them down so they can machine the flywheel in the assumption that the mechanic will get the stubs out after machining and replace them with new ones but some just refit everything and forget or don't know any better.

Jims solution was to get the dowell pins out and drill a tiny hole maybe 2mm right through the dowell holes so next time it's just a matter of punching them out from the other side,he also said replacing pins that have been taken out the butchers way should be mandatory and owing to my concern put dowells in the package with my clutch.Cheers Grey Pearl.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • About $4k brand new, available from vendors in Oz, or via an importer from Japan. Although that is for an R34 box, so you also need to buy the push clutch front plate (brand new from Nissan) and swap that over, and drill the bellhousing for a push clutch slave cylinder.
    • Absolutely could be. I collected data logs from when the O2 sensor was still out and also after I had replaced it so will try to compare them. Pretty confident that the affect is lowered with the new sensor, will check logs at the same RPMs/conditions. 
    • Hey guys Long time lurker, I daily a nm35 stagea 250t rs four and I've had it for almost 2 years (very reliable 👌). Issues or just looking for information ill always find myself here having a read, so thought id join.  3inch stainless intake, pod filter, AM performance turbo dump pipe, 3inch hotdog, 3 and half inch stainless to 3 and half inch AM performance blast pipes. Bc racing coilovers. 18inch rims Hdi intercooler and trans cooler soon.  Here's my car
    • thanks for the advice on the box... i was thinking the 6 speed was better for cruising on the highway but on closer inspection and comparison the Rb 5 speed box was not too different...  So the choice is going to be the RB25 box... if I can save up and find one at the right price  
    • Thanks Matt, yes that's what i am aiming for. Just going to apply the right voltage and grounds to the dash connector. Hence my search for these pins... any chance you know if these pins are in the same spot as the ones on the S15 Dash connector? as mentioned above on page 8?
×
×
  • Create New...