Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no, we put me on the bike and kahli in the car :D that would be fair since i haven't been on a bike in 15 years

but yeah 2 fairly similarly competent driver/rider

just proves monaro are shit get the bathurst R32 in there :)

i once took on my mates 250cc honda, killed it and then came his r1! couldn't even see the bastard he was so far ahead

Those "Baby Blades" are rubbish bikes. I still can't believe people spend $7K for them and they already 15 years old when they hit our shores! :P

Spend $9K and get a real 250, like the Aprilia RS250! Or a real Honda like a VFR400 or RVF400. My old RS250 race bike was madness ... capable of 190kph easy around Mallala with 1 more gear to go. I miss it so much, I'm keen to buy another RS soon.

:(

hey rubes, what do you think of the aprilla rs125. they look alright. and theres one in adelaide for sale atm they want $4750. here is the direct link.

http://www.bikesales.com.au/as/search/sd.d...Page=2&x=58

any suggestions are welcome, as i am starting to look for a cheaper way to work and a bit more fun.

cheers... michael

hey rubes, what do you think of the aprilla rs125. they look alright. and theres one in adelaide for sale atm they want $4750. here is the direct link.

http://www.bikesales.com.au/as/search/sd.d...Page=2&x=58

any suggestions are welcome, as i am starting to look for a cheaper way to work and a bit more fun.

cheers... michael

I love the Aprilia RS range!!! That RS125 doesn't look half bad at all. They top out at 165kph, but you're not going to do that on the streets anyway. They handle excellent, and the braking ability is awesome with Brembos, no other 125 or 250s (except the RS) would come close. Red book value has it at $4300 to $5100 depending on kms, and at the advertised price of $4500 its looking good value for money.

Things to look out for are service history, regular oil changes, condition of powervalves, oil pump condition/level, fork condition and the usual worn tyres and body rashing. I'd prefer to see Dunlop GPR70 rubber on it, but they discontinued them a year or so ago, so it might not have them. The replacement for the GPR70 was the GPRa10. These tyres really suit this kind of pocket rocket. Take the cost of new rubber in mind when viewing this bike and negotiating.

If you want someone there to help eyeball it and test ride it for you, I can make myself available ... seriously, not in for a joy ride. I know these bikes pretty well. :D Heck, if you don't buy it, I just might :D Buy my GSXR race bike for $5K so I can buy this thing :D

Edited by RubyRS4
Last night I was sitting at home contemplating a quiet night on SAU. An hour later im in a stretch hummer with MC Mayhem, DJ Spin Doctor and DJ Demise, on our way to Live (old night train) for some RNB party.

Myself and Chad had a couple of quiet beers, while our friend Miss R33 had, well, quite a few too many :D Was very funny to watch

well you forget you would be board if it wasnt for me winning the cruise :D and i didnt eat that day :D

but you see i love you both xx

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...