Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had a slight issue when I was running a 400fsb where it was rock solid in prime and memtest yet BF2 would still randomly drop to the desktop. Dropped it back to 333 with the same overclok and its now fine.

Thats a memory timing issue. Either the ram isnt rated at 400mhz / pc3200 or the latency timings are out of whack... I only ever had that with cheap ram. When I switched to corsair xtra low latency ddr I stopped having problems (and got a better whetstone too)

-D

what is it? besides a brand of jam ? ^

Theres your standard, baseline ram which is good for what its rated for.... but barely...

Such ram is made by Hynix, Legend.... then you have the really good stuff for overclockers and system tweakers, usually its made by Corsair or OCZ or Team Extreme.... not only can they deal with faster FSB's (for when you're overclocking the FSB) but they can also support more aggressive latency timings (which makes the system more responsive as opposed to FSB which is just how >fast< the memory transfers...)...

Will definately be buying corsair next time but that wont be for another year.... need new turbos first >:(

-D

My supervisor is off sick, so me and my mate are making her a computer out of cardboard. i even photocopied the keyboard and stuck it on some cardboard :( that will teach her for being sick.

If she has a cubicle, tape the entrance off and tip a few hundred litres of packing beans into it. Laughs ahoy

-D

I have seen a pic of that, unfortunately we don't have a cube farm here. I filled a guys draw with packing beans once, he wasn't overly happy.

the other thing u could do is use a screwdriver/ruler to pop the keys off her keyboard... then put them back on in random locations... it'll confuse the hell out of her muahahaha

-D

the other thing u could do is use a screwdriver/ruler to pop the keys off her keyboard... then put them back on in random locations... it'll confuse the hell out of her muahahaha

-D

Ha did that to my mate on friday, and he still hasn't noticed.... dick

the other thing u could do is use a screwdriver/ruler to pop the keys off her keyboard... then put them back on in random locations... it'll confuse the hell out of her muahahaha

-D

I had a mate try that one on me. Joke backfired because I can touch type and not look at the keyboard :D

He got immensely irritated that I wasn't taking the bait. :) It all started because I gave him shit about how he's an IT 'expert' yet he types with 2 fingers at about 15wpm.

I had a mate try that one on me. Joke backfired because I can touch type and not look at the keyboard :D

He got immensely irritated that I wasn't taking the bait. :) It all started because I gave him shit about how he's an IT 'expert' yet he types with 2 fingers at about 15wpm.

Haha. Whenever anyone says they're an expert at anything IT related, you know theyre talking out their cornhole :)

Other thing is to replace the kb with one of those touchtype keyboards without the letters printed on them. Really screws with novices...

http://www.thinkgeek.com/computing/input/8396/ heh....

-D

hahaha sorry bud already have HID maybe you can take my lead and try a group buy yourself

steve wanna do a group buy for headlights? i wouldnt mind new ones as mine arent too bright!!

Mark - how'd you go with your computer

Thats a memory timing issue. Either the ram isnt rated at 400mhz / pc3200 or the latency timings are out of whack... I only ever had that with cheap ram. When I switched to corsair xtra low latency ddr I stopped having problems (and got a better whetstone too)

-D

The board is an EP35-DS3 so DDR2. :D

The ram is fine its DDR800 and not overclocked being at 800.

The chip simply has hit its fsb wall at 400; it doesn't like 400mhz; 380fsb is fine. I haven't bothered to find where exactly the fsb wall is.

In the past I've always gone corsair, OCZ etc.. Had a few bad DOA corsair sticks (back in the ddr2700 and 3200 days) touch wood no issues with OCZ.

These days there's no need to go for the top line stuff unless your really after the last poofteenth; 1066 gear can be picked up cheap these days. Run 1:1 - thats a 533fsb of which will easily net 4ghz and beyond; providing your chip doesn't hit its fsb wall before prior. Intels are fairly forgiving to higher latency (unlike AMD) due to their mem controller design.

Save a shit load and buy decent A-data or kingston; you really can't go wrong. Stress it with memtest looping test 5 and then 8; if its bad it will show so return it for another 2.

hahaha sorry bud already have HID maybe you can take my lead and try a group buy yourself

Mark - how'd you go with your computer

What K are yours Steve? I was going to go 8k but i dont know, i like the 10k. Its a toss up between those 2. Also where did you get them from, ive been looking on ebay, but dont want to comit to the buy haha.

get 6k man 8 and 10 will be too blue and you'll find your self getting pulled over

and also a common miss conception is the higher the k the brighter they are bit its quite the opposite

i got mine from a group buy in R31skylineclub

get 6k man 8 and 10 will be too blue and you'll find your self getting pulled over

and also a common miss conception is the higher the k the brighter they are bit its quite the opposite

i got mine from a group buy in R31skylineclub

Alright. 6k it is. Im a member over on the R31skylineclub forums, so might go have a look. Thanks mate. Probly would have gone the 8, but yeh, probly best if i dont get pulled over.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...