Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

that mani wont crack ryan... its already been all gusseted etc, good welds, all been ported and cleaned up and it's not a cheap shitty china mani..... it's the good stuff.

But you already knew that. :down:

Should see my new mani.... :D:D:D:D yum yum..... and the screamer out the bonnet.

i personally agree with Craig i liked the drifteks but its not about what i like :down:

what did you clean your rotors with and does it cost much because i should maybe clean mine so i can paint the hats

you got much paint left :D

I just used wax and grease remover, or thinners will do, there was so much oil on the disks, when i was bedding in my pads it looked like my car was on fire :D I still have to paint and fit my rear rotors, but i should have heaps of paint left for you to use :down:

I'd go the 33 personally, RB25's are alot better than the 20's IMO, then again you could go a 32 and chuck in a 25 motor

The 33's are damn close to the price of a 32 these days..

33ftw.. better motor better gearbox to start off with. Much better modding platform that won't hurt your wallet as much.

I've also heard that I should go for a non-Turbo first, especially since I'm driving an auto atm. Seems like a wise move IMO.

The 15k includes stamp duty, rego and insurance for a year (so about 12 or 13k for the car itself).

Edited by normangerman

12k ono for my 32 with an auto

or its going into smooth garage on tuesday to get a manual converstion with HD clutch and ill let it go for 13k-13.5kono

if you keen check my forsale thread!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...y2-t226674.html

Edited by Import S13
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...