Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mates 180 is written off because of some stupid f**king wog parking in a no standing zone and 1m from the curb and because the 2 cars in front hit the breaks

not too happy

your mate was too close to stop = fail

A rear ender like that is usually open and shut, 100%, tailenders fault.

Hope your all OK and no-one was hurt.

your mate was too close to stop = fail

A rear ender like that is usually open and shut, 100%, tailenders fault.

Hope your all OK and no-one was hurt.

i think ive busted my shoulder up , gonna go get it checked out tomorrow

my mates devastated cause he just got the car with a loan and now it seems to be written off

sure its not my car but im on the verge of tears cause it brought back memories from a major car accident i was in a few years back :P

your mate was too close to stop = fail

A rear ender like that is usually open and shut, 100%, tailenders fault.

Hope your all OK and no-one was hurt.

+1

hope u guise are all ok

i dont really trust anyone on the roads, fkt if i sit any closer than 3 car lengths behind ppl. been a passenger in similar situation, with a mate who is a hero that can drive close to ppl

thanks

+1

hope u guise are all ok

i dont really trust anyone on the roads, fkt if i sit any closer than 3 car lengths behind ppl. been a passenger in similar situation, with a mate who is a hero that can drive close to ppl

i sit atleast 4 cars away from the car in front , we just came off the lights and then it happened :)

looks like me n my mate will be turning it into a sil80 now :P

thanks

i sit atleast 4 cars away from the car in front , we just came off the lights and then it happened :)

looks like me n my mate will be turning it into a sil80 now :P

yeah, i just consider everyone else on the road is a tard.

hope ur aches n pains arent too bad when u wake up in the morning.

on the plus side...... u guise have a new project :)

yeah, i just consider everyone else on the road is a tard.

hope ur aches n pains arent too bad when u wake up in the morning.

on the plus side...... u guise have a new project :)

we had a project before we went to get kfc

replace the Y fork in his transmission :D

got the part on hold at nisswreck but im guessing we will be haulin s13 parts around now :)

were also going to order coilovers , bucket seat , sway bars , strut braces , caster rods and brake cylinder stoppers for both of our cars but im sure thats on hold now :(

oh well , life goes on , cars are repairable

end of the day , too many tards on the road :P

yeah sure. whenever i need to take them off again or free one weekend i'll let u know.

btw kye they look tough. Just need those coilovers now.

Edited by Luke_ENR34
yeah sure. whenever i need to take them off again or free one weekend i'll let u know.

btw kye they look tough. Just need those coilovers now.

haha yeah tell me about it. its pretty dumped but just needs another inch or so to set it right off.

ill be bottoming out on small pebbles by the time i get it low enough :P

abit mexican at the front though! going to run smaller tyers and more camber i think

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...