Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:D yeah good luck with that.

Go the 31 if you just wanna go out and thrash something. Take your 34 out there if you want to learn more about the car/driving in general. Once you get over the fear of bending a good car its much more fun.

AE86's START at 9k imported...

And that's with only 10% covered in rust!

dont know where you 2 guys are looking for AE86's

http://www.tradecarview.com/used_car/japan...trueno/1455433/

http://www.tradecarview.com/used_car/japan...trueno/1381123/

http://www.japaneseusedcars.com/auction/tu...o-28691719.html

http://www.tradecarview.com/used_car/japan...trueno/1111544/

http://www.tradecarview.com/used_car/japan...+levin/1515519/

and there not the cheapest spec ones

Hmmmm

need money :P

50mm wide body rears for a 32 4dr ;)

Would look fking ace with some GTR front guards & bar.

find those for a R33 4 door and i will love you for ever

I got fruchocs and coke! Close enough.

So im confused but agree with Adrian KEEP IT OFF THE DAMN FORUMS!

i used to work a robern menz :down: mmmm chocolate coated orange bits

Boring.....

Bitching on the net is gay and having to read through it to find the good things to read is even more homo. Is SAU full of 16 year olds now or what?

Because I'm bord, I'm going to borr you all with me. Here's some dodgy pictures I took not long ago. It's only a shitty old camera and ive never done anything fancy with one before so cut me some slack :D

post-19472-1226322489_thumb.jpg

post-19472-1226322565_thumb.jpg

post-19472-1226322630_thumb.jpg

post-19472-1226322842_thumb.jpg

post-19472-1226322949_thumb.jpg

post-19472-1226323009_thumb.jpg

all depends on the yen on the day general rule of thumb

car cost Yen FOB = at the docks

$1100 shipping+10%gst+10%customs+$600 Quarantine & other government charges+ $3000 compliance + broker fees

OH YOUR SO BORING KYE...

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.no really you are JK lol good job man

PLEASE!!! i would kick your ass at halo and i dont even touch that gay-box 360 anymore :D

dont be mad dan, one day ill let you back around to play some more ps3 :down: .................................one day

cheers steve ;) you funny bugger

Edited by Import S13
Because I'm bord, I'm going to borr you all with me. Here's some dodgy pictures I took not long ago. It's only a shitty old camera and ive never done anything fancy with one before so cut me some slack :D

Those pics r sex. Love the paint job.... wish I had one as good ;P

-D

thats gaylo 3 to you

and way to make me realise the tool i am having to nag the rich kid to play the latest and greatest games :D can i come over mum says its ok

im still playing galaga here, apparently games have moved into a get this "3rd dimension"

forgot to put ur window up ;) n get a night kids sticker

Edited by Inline 6
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
    • the top black section is bonded to the silver section with some form of rubber. I assume to isolated NVH from the box
    • Plan B? Get someone to machine up a metal bush/collar/whatever it needs to be to replace the rubber? I haven't had a close look at that part recently to have a proper feel for whether that's possible. But it might be easy.
    • I do not want to install a short shifter and the only other stock throw shifter I have seen is the Nismo "Rigid shifter" for $290 So plan A is to fill it with sikaflex to stiffen it up and hope for the best
×
×
  • Create New...