Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got a good mate of mine that could help you out Pete, i'll give him a call tomorrow.

yes please Chad :P

Pete, told you I can get you gyprock if you like at a nice cheap price. If you're interested, SMS me and I'll get in touch with my mate :)

thanks Luke, I did remember you.

I may be able to get the material cheap through a builder mate of mine (possibly uses CSR) but I just need a hand to do the work.....happy to pay.

Speakin of jobs, I love mine! Average around $800-$1000 weekly, freebies.. bonuses, commision, and relaxed as place to work!

Oh and guy, we have a plumber we recommend, can sms you his number tommorow if u want? Best mates with one of the workers, so does a good job if you saw we sent you!

otherwise you get a subpar job and you have to keep calling him out :);)

i also have a dyno printout thats shows i have 274rwkw and one that says 229rwkw, with no changes to the car at all just different dyno's, but my PFC says they are at 100%, so i have no idea what power reading to believe. Cant wait till saturday so i can see what the boostworks dyno says :P

yeah will be good to run against more of your peers, i was always dubious of your claimed power reading when me and Jenkies drove next to you before he had all that work done

yeah will be interesting.. What boost are u running again?

Usually it takes a good 15psi to crack 240rwkw on stock turbo's on Boostworks dyno.

260rwkw @ 15psi with cams.

Shauns dyno used to read around 10-15rwkw lower than mainlines depending on who straps it down. I'll be there on Sat but unfortunately not running. Too busy with work and cant get down to MTQ to pick up bits to fix the car. :(

ah spewn still dont get to see the sleeper on the dyno :D

***keeps typing fingers away from the$100 formal drive thingy, that thread is gonna get nasty lol***

i lol'd

Guy, what do you need done? I know a plumber (name is Adolf, lol) and he may be able to help. Did the plumbing on my bosses house down in Normanville if you are interested
Oh and guy, we have a plumber we recommend, can sms you his number tommorow if u want? Best mates with one of the workers, so does a good job if you saw we sent you!

I am building my house at Inglewood, but its been held up by 2 yrs thanks to council. The budget is very stretched (thanks to an additional yrs mortgage repayments and ever increasing prices) so I am looking for some traidies that will do cash jobs (with me doing much of the grunt work if possible). I have the underfloor plumbing done but will need to do hot and cold water plumbing next (lay 20mm Rehau hot and cold pipe, fit all noggins etc)

I have nearly got my builders licence (Site Supervisor and Contractors licence) and have had experience as a labourer for many trades, so I am attempting as much as possible myself and leaving the jobs I know I cant do to the professionals.

Can also pay in meals and booze LOL

Edited by 4door_Sleeper

lol, I've seen this come up a couple of times now whilst trolling through the main For Sale thread.

Whatever you do, never ever buy any kind of block that has been bored unless it comes with the pistons that it was bored to suit.

So many blocks for sale that have been "freshly bored" but don't come with pistons..........pistons can vary by up to .005" or more between manufacturers and even more between cast & forgies.

If you buy a block that's been bored for cast pistons and you use forged pistons (unless the forgies have clearance already built into them) you're asking for nightmares.

Forgies require more clearance than cast pistons due to heat growth.

Not only that.........you don't know who did the final hone, what stone or paper they used, and what degree cross hatch was used.

Buy pistons first, give them to the guy on the boring barr and bore to suit them with a torque plate!!

lol, I've seen this come up a couple of times now whilst trolling through the main For Sale thread.

Whatever you do, never ever buy any kind of block that has been bored unless it comes with the pistons that it was bored to suit.

So many blocks for sale that have been "freshly bored" but don't come with pistons..........pistons can vary by up to .005" or more between manufacturers and even more between cast & forgies.

If you buy a block that's been bored for cast pistons and you use forged pistons (unless the forgies have clearance already built into them) you're asking for nightmares.

Forgies require more clearance than cast pistons due to heat growth.

Not only that.........you don't know who did the final hone, what stone or paper they used, and what degree cross hatch was used.

Buy pistons first, give them to the guy on the boring barr and bore to suit them with a torque plate!!

right on!

more people getting packages....and just got an email from someone from GMH saying in the first 1/4 of next year their shutting down for 22 working days!! YIKES!!!!

Penny its probably split and i'd guess that its a press in/press out job?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • UPDATE: Yes the GSP Axles are compatible. I installed it on my R34 today and they are working a treat! Turns out that the S13, S14, S15, and 200 SX all used the same axles as the HR34, and ER34 NA models. Which is 2 bolt x 3 pairs.  
    • Also build this EH ute with 370z motor and gearbox with a couple of turbos just for fun.  
    • Got the passenger door on plus the master cylinder and booster. Loaded up to take it home. At home, the colour changes a lot in the light.
    • Nothing cheap, but I have seen the AC Hydraulic DK13HLQ which is pretty close to what you're asking for. The problem is the hydraulic cylinder mandates that the back of the jack be a certain height and Skylines have fairly deep inset floor jack points. A more certain and cheap option is to get some nominal 2x10 inch lumber boards and have one board be 1.5 feet, the other board 3 feet. Glue it all together with lots of clamps to maintain pressure. Make two of these. The ramp suggested above is a good idea, it takes quite a bit of clutch slip to get over each of the boards. I only need the first ~1.5 inches for my low profile jack on a standard ride height car but a lowered car you want to go up to the full ~3-3.5 inches. Paint it or store indoors if you want it to last.
    • Ok. And Nistune? I read (here too) mainly on Stagea threads that it can by "turn off" with Nistune. But they say they still had the sensor plug in. Next week iam going to the Nistune(and other ECUs) tuner so i can finally make it work. I drove the car home and apart from the cut it drove great. No misfire no smoke no hesitation or rough start...so hoping it is this sensor that is missing  
×
×
  • Create New...