Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well just got back from a quick test run...

Took me a couple hours to fit the climate control's hot/cold door actuator and the rest of the interior I had to take out to get to it... mate of my soldered the dry joints last night...

and IT WORKS! Holy smeg! I haven't had a working climate control since I bought the car and I >finally< have airconditioning at my whim!

RAWR!!!

feel the power! revel in its awesomeness!

Thanks to madaz for showing me the tutorial link, I probably would have missed it otherwise. I owes you a brewski mon!

*sings a song about summer and climate controls while dancing a jig and drinking a beer*

-D

hey guys,

got my car today.. and it dies whenever i clutch in when it warms up..

its got apexi turbo, stock ecu, stock afm, bov blocked off, 3inch turbo back.

any ideas on wat would be causing it?

^ could start with like a process of elimination of things Adrian.

first thing that springs to my mind is get someone to make it stall the way it usually does while you watch from outside. If there's any black smoke coming from the exhaust it's simply too rich at idle/off throttle. If not, you've eliminated overfuelling to be the cause at least :D

Mine did the same Adrian when I used to clutch down to change into 2nd. Sif you never msg'd me to meet up somewhere so I can see the car.

sorry man i JUST finished work! catch up tomorrow night?

Hey was thinking bout going into town friday night or sat night as well!! Gouger street you say eh, might see if wifey's keen n head in!

im interested if others are, last time i went they had those cut out new lancers with forza 2 hooked up to the steering wheel n pedals n stuff schooled all the people around :D for free i might add.

plus ill be done with uni for the year and in need of alcohol :P

Well just got back from a quick test run...

Took me a couple hours to fit the climate control's hot/cold door actuator and the rest of the interior I had to take out to get to it... mate of my soldered the dry joints last night...

and IT WORKS! Holy smeg! I haven't had a working climate control since I bought the car and I >finally< have airconditioning at my whim!

RAWR!!!

feel the power! revel in its awesomeness!

Thanks to madaz for showing me the tutorial link, I probably would have missed it otherwise. I owes you a brewski mon!

*sings a song about summer and climate controls while dancing a jig and drinking a beer*

-D

thats awsome! im yet to own a car with air con :P

i'll let you fix mine up too :D

hey guys,

got my car today.. and it dies whenever i clutch in when it warms up..

its got apexi turbo, stock ecu, stock afm, bov blocked off, 3inch turbo back.

any ideas on wat would be causing it?

try unblocking your bov and run the standard one and see how you go?

Well, while we're being stupid, I'll run a pipe off the back of the turbo into the cabin, then I'll be too deaf to hear them complain :D

and be killed by the noxious fumes.

... win win really. :P

and be killed by the noxious fumes.

... win win really. :wub:

Yeah well I get that already when I only open the front windows, sucks in a lovely aroma of unburnt fuel (see my profile :laugh:)

But yeah I reckon thats a goer, I'll get on it tomorrow :D:P

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...