Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Roo...

teaspoon full of cement babe.. LOL!

I would ... if I had a lunch break! :(

Almost finished a few edits on this drawing. Finishing up in about half hour and just going home to knuckle down some CAD drawings for my project ... and complete the wall and floor framing for our house (hope to have the plans for the extension ready for lodgement with Council this week). Also gotta proof read Tracy's assignments.

... don't think I'll be in bed until midnight tonite :ermm:

Right ... this is one problem solved :ermm:

Figured this feature was on SAU somewhere. He's just persistently annoying and I've decided he has nothing intelligent to say. Ahhhh ... bliss

Image2.jpg

anyone knows whats happend to that Sly GTR today? apparently had a mishap on main north rd near the ford dealership. Hope its nothing major.

Edit, Also what RB30 bottom end do i need? Matt told me but i kinda of forgot.

Edited by Luke_ENR34

Yeah Luke, apparently got sideswiped... didn't look too good from what I was told and I only saw it seconds before it happened!

As for the RB30 bottom end, I beleive it's out of an Series 2 VL... atleast that's what I remember from my research

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...