Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anyone here need there guards rolled? Getting my hand on a guard roller next week to roll chad's and possibly my car. If i do a good job on my car, would anyone been keen to get there guards rolled?

yes please how long have you got it for car is still at mechanics unless i take you there.?

pm-me about to sort out a gift for you too :(.

anyone here need there guards rolled? Getting my hand on a guard roller next week to roll chad's and possibly my car. If i do a good job on my car, would anyone been keen to get there guards rolled?

Yep Luke i need my guards rolled. I'll do it myself if I can borrow the roller? All you have to do is watch and drink the brews I'll supply for the borrowing. Have you got a heat gun to heat the paint? I have one if you need.

EDIT!!

Hey Jenkies, I see you lurking there. How's things been?

Edited by D_Stirls
nah he went from an rb25det to this rb26dett

will hopefully know whats wrong with it tomorrow, id LOVE to buy an rb26 from an R34 gtr but that wont happen.

Ah that'd be awesome. Just Jap have N1 crate engines, all built... just hook up the turbos and stuff... $12k.

Its not a 2hr job lol u dont need to take the inlet manifold off, just the throttle body and use a whole heap of sockets. If u get splitfires and need a hand yell out and i'll do it.

Thanks heaps, I would taken u up on this offer but morpowa have it at the workshop. Ill pass this info to em tho.

Cheers :(

Lol lets group buy that shit up!! They only have like 2 left haha.

But if you think about it:

12k for the engine

$200? for the postage

2k for the labour to take out/install the new engine

$400 for a tune?

I'd say, if you had a lazy 16k, it'd be a good deal. And you get all the strengthened goodness of N1!

Penny keep us posted about morpowa's verdict and how much they slug you

Cronic good luck getting an N1 engine tuned for $400 :(

edit

Penny there the same price as turbo ones you want SF-DIS009 there about 650 from nengun

Lol it was a rough guesstimate!

Come to think of it now... even PFC tunes are more expensive :(

Edit: okay, so they're now 12999 and they're out of stock :(http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=334&page=1

How about a NUR spec engine? http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=334&page=1

Or maybe a craaaazy N1 engine? http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=334&page=1

Edited by CRoNic...

I think there going to try and replace just the one that's not working for now and see how it goes. If it works then sweet.. I'm pretty sure I want to sell it so I don't want to spend heaps.

I could change my mind. Just dunnooooo

why you wanna sell up?

I want to go faster, I'm always using the best products and servicing it all the time at morpowa and I'm tired of spending shitloads on it when im not satisfied with its power.

If it was turbo I wouldn't mind forking the cash out. At the moment it just doesn't seem worth it. :(

Lol Damo, just noticed your Quad-Turbo car description in your profile! Does it make 2399kw at all 6 wheels? :(

Nah im running a conservative tune on 30psi, 1578rwkw. Getting tuned for E95 soon, apparently its 150 octane. Should see 3000kw at the wheels.

I want to go faster, I'm always using the best products and servicing it all the time at morpowa and I'm tired of spending shitloads on it when im not satisfied with its power.

If it was turbo I wouldn't mind forking the cash out. At the moment it just doesn't seem worth it. :)

Buy a Stagea! :(

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...