Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i hear what your saying Son dont worry.

but these guys know what they are talking about, and they know what the limits are of the drivetrain etc when it comes to it no matter what kind of car it is.......

for example CAPA have a black ss ute that i think has the 800hp blower on it and that is running a fully stock transmission!! and they havent had an issues at all even with 30+ dyno runs.

it comes down to what i want to do. if i decide i am gonna keep her as show and dyno queen (which im happy to do) ill be fine....

ehm, the 'fully stock bro' transmission in any recent(ish) ss is a tremec t56, basically its a tank of a gearbox, capable of handling stupendous torque loads, everything is oversized and beefed up in a t56, takes a left arm made of iron to shift though. they make rb25 transmissions look like theyre made of glass. why do you think big power drag skylines run after market gearsets or even built autos and hollingers? because the stock gear set will shit the bed when it tries (in vain) to introduce nigh on 700hp to the pavement through a set of grippy tyres...

and youve gotta remember, the load on a cars driveline on a dyno is pretty minimal, and strain is built gradually, start in second gear, slip into 4th at 60km/h, then into WOT. very easy on a driveline compared to slipping the clutch at 4000rpm on slicks.

the 5spd R34 box wont handle the power, the torque will strip off the gears quick smart or brake a shaft. dynos maybe ok, but one drag launch kiss it good bye if you have traction ? if it doesnt break the half shaft will or drive shaft...drag racing kills parts, its a $$$$ option to drag a skyline with audio gear in it

aluminum flywheels kill your low end grunt feel, I had one for 11 years. good for track days, good punch out of corners , lousy for street duty or stoplights on hills..lol add a 3 plate clutch makes it worse,, on or off only?

chro molly is a better choice .

Im not a holden freak but Im semi sure they run a Getrag 6 spd box, same as a supra TT and vette.. much much better box then the 5spd, way stronger

close, see above, tremec t56, used in dodge vipers, z06's, ss commodores, and im reasonably sure turbo falcons use them also. big heavy f**kin boxes, but nigh on unbreakable.

Edited by scandyflick
in the latest HPI theres an article on an R33 gtr, and i quote "with a figure of 530hp at the fours, second gear and an input shaft from an OS-Giken cross-set were smashed to pieces"

Does it say how long he was running it though? depending on who ya know and what you can do yourself sometimes its better to just replace the standard item than go all out. i know people that run turbo swifts with the special 4wd jap version box at a cost of 7k a box while some just run the standard box and replace it every 2 years when it blows from the extra power.

also you might wanna think about the amount of cash thats getting thrown up on ideas to spend, you could say do a round would tour while ya still young enough to enjoy it :P or alternatively invest it and look to retire early. or dump it on a drag car that will break parts no matter what you mod it with. at the end of the day something gonna snap sooner or later.

Edited by Inline 6

yeah, its pretty average, and im rather disappointed. the front pipe (from the same mob) is pretty good by the looks of it, the dump pipe however, as you can see, is pretty f**kin horrid.

Man thats pretty ugly Dave.

Good to see grey imports off the msn site, replaced by locally available http://news.ninemsn.com.au/national/803971...speed-car-crash

Got a mtric tap and die set here if you want to try clean the threads out a bit Dave.

Edited by Jamesrb25
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...