Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how much you pay for it? i paid 2k for my pulsar and its mint with only 150k's on it.

if we talking a $100 rolla seems a bit silly your gonna spend $1000 on replacing every fluid in it. i know ppl that havnt done 1 oil change in pretty much new cars and driven for like 100k and it still seems to go. just do the basics keep it simple and replace the mofo in the unlikely event it breaks.

even if you do all that replacing it can still f up on you, old cars are old cars. last owner was prob doing key bangers in it.

Edited by Inline 6

i paid 900 for her, and the interior is mint as, needs a good clean, but overall its been looked after. and i got a mate who is a mechanic that has said he will help me do the fluid changes and timing belt etc for me for free :)

i dont think ive ever changed the oil in the magna. just topped it up every now and then. only engine failure its experienced was due to the fact that it had more mileage than most dailys on this site combined. current engine is reasonably new (only 200,000k), and itll be getting the same treatment, check dipstick every 6 months, top up as required.

you could just use the old oil from the 14 dave.

hahah, i would, but i think itd be too light for the old magna.

still be better than the slop i top it up with though. and probably good for another 15,000k...

... but it just doesnt seem right, putting motul 300v in a magna, even if it is old oil.

u do realize alot of people do that cara :) prob still better than most cheap dailys get treated.

naturally it being car ppl on here they would treat cars a bit better than most and do the full treatment on the pride n joy. but the average daily you buy from some stranger prob hasnt had an oil change since it rolled off the production line. although im sure the owner told you it did every 10,000

yeah they would tell you whatever you want to hear anyway :D i have little trust in people.

deff do an oil change, and the rest just look at how much its going to cost and dont go overboard like you do with the 34 :)

o and im not sure when uni n stuff is ending so ill come down to kadina if im not doing much but wont enter

probably doesnt have a service history. but 4ac's are worth about a 6 pack of beer, if you get it from somewhere expensive. really not worth spending mass dollars on (ie, more than a 6 pack of beer for every service).

fill it with cheap castrol oil, replace the trans fluid if you really think you have to. the only fluid id worry about is brake fluid.

yeah, 6 packs are the new yard sticks.

Edited by scandyflick

be about 60 cartons if you can find a cheapie. install will be about the same. hope youve got a van.

youre crazy dan. takes a special kind of driver to be able to properly utilise the awesomeness that is an sr20det.

Edited by scandyflick

Dan, leave the 34 out of this will ya

i just like to know wtf is going on with the car, and know what is in it. she runs well, no issues with that, brakes alright too, but would rather spend a few dollars making sure i know whats in it and basicalyl having to create my owns ervice history for her

seriously, its a daily. 2 6 packs for fresh oil, air filter, and oil filter. add another 6 pack if you wanna do plugs. if you spend more than that, well...

... it is a daily you know.

Edited by scandyflick

i heard it was short for sr20detonate :D

just saying if a car is worth something and will be in the future you look after it, if you buy a disposable car. you run it till it dies and dispose of it :)

car park here is full of disposables hence why they dont understand when i talk about the gtr

Edited by Inline 6
i heard it was short for sr20detonate :D

yeah, nissan really missed the mark with their engine coding.

ca18detonate

sr20detonate

rb20detonate

rb25detonate

and rb26dettonate, which is kinda the same, but costs 3x more to fix.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...